We are entering Spring, having just shared the top ”comfort food” holidays. It brought to my mind what “comfort food” really means to me, and then I had a question. Has the Pandemic changed what those foods are that provide us comfort?
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Comfort Food + Effects
2020 was the year of quarantining and social distancing, topped with confusion about how to stay safe, and loss of economic certainty. 2121 came around and it was a pandemic continuation with growing illness and death numbers, a chaotic food and product supply problem, and the start of Putin’s War. Now toward the end of 2022 the pandemic may have more lessons for us on the horizon, Putin’s War continues, supply chains are getting better slowly, and food costs are going up dramatically in some cases. To say the least, since 2020 it has been very stressful, and comfort food is on the rise according to PrNewsWire.
Definitions
The term “comfort food” refers to food that provides consolation, or a personal feeling of well-being. A dish that is associated with positive childhood memories, or nostalgia, maybe of family and home cooking. But, the experience of “comfort food” is also very individualistic, and often depends upon your parents or extended family’s identification with an ethnic culture.
Websters Dictionary indicates the first time this term was used was in 1958, but Wikipedia points to 1966. Either way, it has been used for only ~70 years. Although I have no doubt that the concept has been around from the beginning of cooking.
There are a number of high-level studies that indicate the complexity of this term, and many even think the idea of comfort food and it providing actual comfort is a myth. While the science can show that food does not trigger changes in mood, I think it is more complex. It may not make the mood change, but the mind goes to the concept of comfort food during times of stress for women or excitement for men. Bottom line, if the brain jumps there, there must be a reason.
Biological Studies
Studies (2020) are getting clearer, mainly because of the unusual time there are more studies. There seems to be an agreement that comfort food does appear to trigger dopamine which gives us a sense of well-being. Those who continue to find no correlation between food a mood lifting, are still out there, but seem smaller in numbers.
Some research indicate there are interesting differences by gender, women tend to look to comfort food when they are feeling lonely, guilt, depression, or sad, whereas men seek comfort food as a reward (1: 2005).
But there are also age differences and studies are underway to consider serving comfort food to geriatric people who are having difficulty with their appetites.
Time reported, biologically speaking, scent and memory are closely tied. “Psychological research has demonstrated that smells are powerfully linked to memory, and to autobiographical memory in particular,” says Reid. “The olfactory bulb, which is involved in the sense of smell, is linked to areas in the brain associated with memory and emotional experiences.” So smelling that dish your mom used to make will bring back those memories and related emotions.
Psychological Studies
Studies have shown that eating these types if dishes may actually produce, within one’s body, a chemical high leading to relaxation and feelings of well being. In some studies, people describe eating comfort food as a way of self-medicating (1: 2005) to initiate a mood modification.
But there are differences based on our childhood experiences as well. People with strong relationships and relatively good childhoods reach for comfort food when lonely. Thus, many think comfort food is powerful due to the associations it brings up in our minds. In other words, if you have a wonderful childhood, you are more likely to recall certain foods as comfort, because it brings good feelings.
- TheAtlantic (2015): If you’re a small child and you get fed certain foods by your primary caregivers, then those foods begin to be associated with the feeling of being taken care of. And then when you get older, the food itself is enough to trigger that sense of belonging. But if, when you’re a child, those connections are more anxiety-ridden … then when you’re older and you eat those foods, you may feel less happy.
What these and other studies (2003) bring up to me, is more of a question: over the past several pandemic years, have families been making and eating more comfort food than usual? And is that related to the “pandemic pounds” we are seeing?
- GlobalNewsWire (2020): Due to pandemic stressors, there has been a global uptick in the consumption of bread, considered by many to be a comfort food. This ends a 20-year decline of grain consumption worldwide.
Contrary Opinion
Some people say that “comfort” can be supplied by anything, it not need be food only. Comfort can be supplies by a favorite poem, book, movie, music, etc. Food is just one way we can comfort ourselves in difficult or lonely times.
Others argue that “comfort food” is a reinforced social idea not supported by science. The reference below is from 2017, pre-pandemic, and I think newer studies are in fact showing there is a connection between food and physiological responses.
- ScienceDirect: [Research] results have led to some influential headlines suggesting that the very notion of comfort food is nothing more than a myth. While this may be overstating matters somewhat, it is clear that many uncertainties still surround if, when, and for whom, the consumption of comfort food really does provide some sort of psychological benefit.
Our Pandemic Comfort Foods
I want to start this section by first acknowledging that in the USA many of the comfort food dishes have cheese as an ingredient. And no wonder, as cheese contains a dairy protein called casei. This protein releases plant compounds called casomorphins. So casei releases casomorphines, and these are plant compounds that trigger the brain to produce dopamine. So cheese is “mildly” addictive and perhaps that is why we eat so much of it.
- Forbes: For perspective, a cup of milk contains 7.7 grams of protein, 80% of which is casein. When converted to cheddar, for example, the protein content multiplies 7-fold, to 56 grams. It’s the most concentrated form of casein in any food in the grocery store.
USA Comfort Food 2016
There have been surveys to find out what the USAs favorite comfort food was and one post (2016) indicates it was pizza.
- Nearly 15 percent of the 2,252 adults surveyed by Harris listed pizza as their top comfort food, more than twice as many as said chocolate (7 percent) or ice cream (7 percent) and more still than said mac and cheese (5 percent), chips (4 percent), hamburgers (3 percent), steak (3 percent), or either popcorn, pasta or Mexican food (2 percent apiece).
Pandemic Starts 2020
In 2020 the pandemic started and food sites noted that comfort food consumption was on the minds of many people.
- Encouraged by the first doses of the coronavirus vaccine administered in the US this week, many Americans are eager for a return to normalcy in the new year, but they also recognize widespread inoculation and economic recovery will be slow and so they plan to continue in 2021 much as they have in 2020, according to new research released Dec. 16 by the International Food Information Council.
- IFIC Director Ali Webster: Encouraged by the first doses of the coronavirus vaccine administered in the US this week, many Americans are eager for a return to normalcy in the new year, but they also recognize widespread inoculation and economic recovery will be slow and so they plan to continue in 2021 much as they have in 2020.
Tentative Reopening 2021
In 2021 we can, sort of, return to a very modified restaurant dining and BusinessInsider notes these are the growing “comfort foods” restaurants are tracking.
- Elote: Mexican-style corn cob on the cob covered in cheese, mayonnaise, chile powder, and lime.
- Cacio e Pepe: a pasta dish made with black pepper, Pecorino Romano,and spaghetti or tonnarelli.
- Chicken and waffles: breaded, pan-fried chicken over buttermilk waffles.
- Tater tots: a fast-food dish made of deep-fried, grated potatoes shaped into cubes.
- Korean barbecue:
- Steamed Buns: A Chinese bun filled with meat and veggies, or a sweet filling like custard or chocolate.
- Shakshuka: North African dish made by poaching eggs in a pan full of spiced tomato sauce,
- Pork rinds: A Cajun fatty and salty snack made out of fried or roasted pig skin.
According to the TheWallStreetJournal, the ultimate comfort food was fried, and they found that our love of that type of cooking was shown by the increased deep fryer repairs restaurants’ experienced, a doubling of repairs between 2021 and 2022.
My Family Comfort Food 2022
I have several and they are based on places where I have spent time in my childhood and young adulthood. Each of these foods brings certain images to mind of locations, weather, sounds, smells, and a sense of overall well being. When eating I often feel my shoulders lower, I take deeper breathes, and feel settled in my seat. All the physical signs of relaxation and content.
- Pfannkuchen (German crepe-like pancakes rolled up with either a cinnamon + sugar, or jam filling)
- Semmels and Fleish Salat (German deli-meat + bread)
- Potato Salad (German versions in particular)
- Mac-n-cheese (Southern dish)
- Bowl of white rice with Bonito (Japanese)
- Chicken Congee with Chinese donuts (Vietnamese)
- Shepards Pie (Irish)
- Enchiladas with rice and beans (Mexican)
- A charcuterie and cheese plater with wine (French)
- Almost any soup or stew
I checked with my spouse and here is another list that shows a different set of comfort foods. What amazed me was that there were so few.
- Mashed potatoes
- Ice cream (especially Baskin & Robin Green Mint)
- Mac-n-cheese
- Stuffed tofu dogs (onions, catsup, mustard, brown sugar) with baked beans
For my son, it is food I rarely cooked for him growing up, sure we did mac-n-cheese but tuna is something I would not add.
- Mac-n-cheese with tuna
- Ramen with potstickers
- Pfannkuchen (but only if I cook it)
My View of 2024 comfort food
New or renewed flavor trends that I am seeing include watermelon, choices of hot sauce, and the growth of tamarind use in the USA.
I have also noticed a growth in pre-made, global cuisines and fun (although not necessarily alcoholic) drinks (1). I think also trends indicate we are turning our comfort food into food that supports mental and physical health, such as converting Caesar salad, using kale or chard instead of romain lettuce. But, at the same time, cheesey food has not lost its appeal.
Comfort Food and Pandemic
There has been a general agreement that, especially the immediate time after the recognition of the pandemic, people were starting to isolate from social interactions with family, friends and society in general. In some people, this removal from society resulted in loneliness, depression, panic or anxiety, and feelings of insecurity. Then came the loss of fiscal security, job loss, loss of insurance or other beneifts tied to those jobs, even loss of housing. And even now, the additional political anti-mask and anti-vaxxers response to the pandemic, has driven wedges between families, friends and social groups.
People have done what they can to deal with the emotional and fiscal harms that have been inflicted during this tumultuous times. The coping mechanisms people have chosen have not always been the most healthy, but have given them a way to process and act. This includes taking up cooking and baking, as well as gardening.
Preparing and eating more comfort food is among those strategies. A study (2021) clearly shows a relationship between the stresses brought on by the pandemic and the increase in comfort food consumption. Additionally, as the crisis became more of a routine, the amount of comfort food consumption lessened. Another study (2021) shows the raise of “emotional eating” as the pandemic proceeded.
Also, in reference to the changing patterns of USA comfort foods list (above) is I think a hidden aspect of the pandemic isolation: that is, plain boredom. We have been isolating since March 2020, coming quickly on 2 years of this pandemic and after a while you can only bake so much, even our beloved hobbies can become boring. So one aspect of this change is we are now exploring different cuisines as we “hunger” for new experiences, new tastes, new anything.
Summary
Many studies and articles are clear, comfort food provides us:
- Satiated appetites: a physical soothing, satisfaction, wholeness, safety
- A way to self-medication in times of depression, loneliness, isolation, insecurity
- With a sense of belonging: bringing memories of home, belonging, family, security
- A sense of nostalgia: scents trigger memories, good feelings, reminders of special occastions
- Something familiar in times of turmoil, insecurity, fear, anxiousness
Another thing I have learned, is that for many of us when our foundation is quaking, can find comfort in controlling what we can. Food is something we totally control (if we are food-secure) and thus making comfort food not only supplies the benefits listed above, but provides us something we can completely control.
Looking forward, the National Restaurant Association (NRA) partnered with the American Culinary Federation (ACF) to post their 2022 What’s Hot Report where they found the following trends topping their 2022 List:
- Sustainability
- Plant-based foods
- Comfort foods
- Healthy & immunity-boosting foods
- Global fare and flavours
What does it mean that “comfort food” is one of the trends? It is probably why in my area we have little restaurants and ghost kitchens dedicated to nothing but variations on mac-n-cheese, and another to melted cheese sandwiches.
—Patty
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