Meat Salads

Photo of deli-meat salad on bread topped with parsley.
Fleischsalat on a sandwich. In real life I would have tripled the amount of meat salad on this bread….but my spouse was watching, so I added more parsley. Photo by PattyCooks.

Pandemic Pounds

Here in the California Bay Area, we are slowly lifting restrictions, and as expected, infection numbers are raising. Because I am in a susceptible group, I continue to stay away from large gatherings, limit my exposure , and work from home. But, also expected, a result of these limits have resulted in gaining the dreaded “pandemic pounds”. The result of limited exercise, being near my kitchen, and seeking comfort food. One of my spouse’s comfort food is bread stuffing, but one of mine is a Wurstsalat.

Since I recommended, in March, that we stock up with canned meats, I am now getting requests to detail what to do with those tinned foods. So this post describes dishes you can make with tinned meats/fish, and some recipes of one of my favorite comfort dishes.

What is a Meat Salad

When I talk about meat salads, I am not speaking about a lettuce-based salad with some bacon, or a slice of chicken, steak, or salmon. But in reality, to me a meat salad is a cold dish of chopped meat mixed with flavorful veggies, condiments, and herbs.

My idea of actual meat salads are:

  • Fish Salads: Tuna, Salmon, Mackerel, and Trout salads
  • Fowl Salads: Chicken and Turkey salads
  • Deli Meats Salad: Fleischsalat
  • Sausage Salad: Wurstsalat

History of Meat Salads

“Salad”, is described in Wikipedia, as beginning with the Romans, ancient Greeks and Persians [who] ate mixed greens with dressing, a type of mixed salad. Salads, including layered and dressed salads, have been popular in Europe since the Greek and Roman imperial expansions

Willow Tree Farm, referenced by many other web sites, writes that China may be the first to have the idea of combining pieces of chicken mixed with a variety of spices and oils, always tied together by a binding substance. However, while this may be true, I cannot find any proof of this claim; did fine other people who claim it was actually the French in early 1800’s who made this salad.

Meanwhile, the story of chicken in the USA starts with slavery. FirstWeFeast writes that Under the laws of much of the American South during the colonial era, slaves were forbidden to own pigs, cows, and other large livestock. Slaves kept flocks of chickens for their own sustenance, and many began trading the bird’s feathers, eggs, and meat with their masters. Then with fried chicken, eventually we had chicken salad sandwiches (1863 in Rhode Island), and then the egg salad sandwiches (first mentioned in 1910 in NY).

The story of meat salads, according to the Smithsonian: The tuna salad sandwich originated from an impulse to conserve . . . In the 19th century – before the era of supermarkets and cheap groceries – most Americans avoided wasting food. Scraps of chicken, ham or fish from supper would be mixed with mayonnaise and served on lettuce for lunch. Leftovers of celery, pickles and olives – served as supper “relishes” – would also be folded into the mix.

Fish-based Salads

Tuna

HealthLine writes, You can eat skipjack and light canned tuna alongside other low-mercury fish a few times each week, but should limit or avoid albacore, yellowfin and bigeye tuna. Nothing we can do, will remove mercury from tuna, so all we can do is limit our consumption of the fish. Websites state that the higher cost Albacore has more mercury than small, light, chunk skipjack tuna. But, make sure to not eat any internal organs from any fish, for they can contain higher levels.

  • For Tuna Salad I use drained canned tuna (when I had a cat I would save the juice and sometimes add 1/2t of the sauce to her food), finely chopped celery, finely chopped carrots (some people grate the carrots), a small diced shallot, and a bit of mayo seasoned with salt and pepper. I serve this salad on top of a bit of shredded red-tipped lettuce (for color).
    • If I feel the salad needs something more, I might add capers, parsley, and a small squeeze of lemon or lime
    • I prefer using canned Wild Planet’s Skipjack Wild Tuna because they are line-caught fish and the company is dedicated to sustainable fishing
  • Tuna Salad Sandwich: I prefer using toasted sourdough or rye bread for this sandwich, then place the salad between the bread slices and eat
    • There is no need for additional condiments as the salad has its own, but sometimes I may add some deli mustard if I feel like having it more vinegary
    • Some people add tomatoes and lettuce, but I prefer not
  • Melted Open Tuna Salad Sandwich: I place the salad on two toasted bread slices and into the oven to melt (usually cheddar) cheese over the top, then add some finely chopped parsley, and serve.

Salmon

WebMD writes, for most healthy adults, the health benefits of salmon far outweigh the much smaller and less-clear risk that the PCBs found in it could cause cancer. (Children and pregnant or nursing women may be at increased risk of exposure to contaminants and should check with their doctors for advice on eating all kinds of fish.)

If you are concerned, do not eat the salmon skin, remove any darker meat, and cook it so that the fat melts off. These actions can reduce PCBs in the fish, but better is to limit consumption to once a week.

  • For a very simple Salmon Salad I use cooked and flaked salmon, finely chopped celery and red onion, dill, capers, and season with salt, some fresh fruity or citrus infused vinegar, and pepper
    • I prefer using Wild Planet‘s Wild Pink Salmon but mainly I make this salad from leftovers of a previous nights salmon dinner
    • Vegan: Vegan Essentials has a vegan option for smoked salmon

Smoked Mackerel

Northern Europe has a variety of fish salads. It of course makes sense giVen their location and resources. Remember to remove the bones before you serve!

  • Smoked Mackerel Salad: The way this has been made in Nordic regions is to chop smoked mackerel and mix with diced red onion, sour cream, a bit of mayo, lemon juice and pepper. Usually this is served a slices of hearty, good brown rye bread.
  • Crunchy Smoked Mackerel Salad: Chop up the fish and mix with chopped cucumber, radishes, apple and chives to make a crunchy salad. Top with a sauce made up of yogurt, horseradish, lemon juice, vinegar and a bit of sugar.
    • The way I serve this dish is first to add a few romain lettuce on the plate, top those lettuce leaves with the salad
    • Sometimes I add some watercress to the top

Smoked Trout Salad

This is a very white looking dish so I add bright green ingredients to the salad: chives, parsley, small bits of dill. As a reminder, be sure that all fish skin and bones are removed.

  • Smoked Trout Salad: I mix the chopped trout with apples, walnuts and watercress, with a sauce of pureed shallots, bit of apple vinegar, Dijon mustard and walnut oil
    • I like to plate this so it is salad filled endive leaves and sprinkle some chopped parsley on top
  • Smoked trout salad sandwiches: This is a mix of chopped smoked trout, sliced red onion, chopped celery, some mayonnaise and sour cream, chives, lemon juice and pepper
    • For color and crunch, I may top the sandwich with sliced radish or a lettuce leaf, and maybe some dill

Fowl-based Salads

Chicken Salad

This is a common salad, often served in restaurants as a sandwich with sliced tomatoes and lettuce. My spouse eats this as a salad, sometimes with some crackers.

  • For Chicken Salad I usually mix chopped chicken breasts, with mayo, salt, pepper, chopped fresh (or home dried) tarragon leaves and a squeeze of lemon juice. If I want to add a flourish, I may top with fresh flat leafed parsley.
    • Although I could use canned white chicken meat, specifically Keystone‘s canned Chicken
    • I prefer roasting my own chicken breasts
  • Chicken Salad Sandwich: I place the salad on a toasted bread with hot and sweet deli mustard

Turkey Salads

Turkey, is a native North American bird. Although what we buy in the stores is a “Frankenstein” version of the real thing, it is a cheaper meat that families who eat meat should consider for more than twice a year.

For those who love traditional thanksgiving dinner, the sandwich version is great as it brings together all the flavors. I first had this sandwich is a restaurant in Seattle, located near and catering to UofW students. OMG I can still remember that first bite, even 40 years later.

  • Turkey Salad: I mixed chopped turkey white and dark meat with mayo, salt, pepper, dried or fresh tarragon and sage, and will add thinly sliced celery, dried cranberries and chopped walnuts.
    • Best is to use fresh turkey meat and NOT deli-sliced meats
  • Thanksgiving Turkey Salad Sandwich: Place jellied cranberry sauce as a condiment on two toasted slices of bread, add a layer of bread stuffing, then a layer of the turkey salad.

German Meat Salads

Like many who have grown up in Germany, one of my favorite things to eat was to have some Semmels (or more formally known as Brötchen, or bread rolls) from the local bakery, and some Fleischsalat from the grocery store or butcher, and pile the salad into the bread for a wonderfully filling and tasty tangy lunch sandwich.

In all of Germany, a good meat salad is appreciated. Containers of the stuff are often sold in butcher and grocery stores all ready to grab and eat. There are regional variations of course, but in general, the basic and main ingredient is meat from either German Bologna or Sausages.

There are two basic types of meat salads: Fleischsalat and Wurstsalat that many people confuse, but are different, and both salads have large regional differences.

  • Fleischsalat is a Northern German “meat salad” where the deli meat is cut into small slices and mixed with barrel pickles in a mayo-pickle sauce.
  • Wurstsalat is a Southern German version using sausages, sliced lengthwise, and added to a tart tasting sauce made with white vinegar, oil, and onions.

German Meat Salad Ingredients

Mortadella dn German bologna side by side.
Italienische Mortadella Is on the left, German bologna on the right. Neither of which looks like American bologna. Photo by PattyCooks.

Bologna

The history of “bologna” is clear, starting in Italy, it moved to Germany, and then German immigrants brought it to the USA.

  • Italian Mortadella is a licensed and certified deli meat that is made out of minced pork, with visible pork fat chunks, and spices. It is not dried cured, and as a result, is a moist meat and not dry as salami or pepperoni. It is placed in a natural casing, often pig, and slow cooked for up to a day.
  • German Bologna, was developed using the Italian Mortadella as a source. It is wet cured, using a combination of minced pork and beef, with a subtle garlic flavor. German Bologna has 180 calories for 2oz of meat.
  • American Bologna came from German Immigrants, but is mainly an unregulated deli meat that is processed, seasoned, and pasteurized a bit differently from its European cousins. The meat source can be from a variety of animals. One unusual requirement, is that it must be made with a meat batter (instead of minced meat like in Europe) which in turn produces its homogeneous and consistent meat. American Bologna has 152.3 calories for 1.97oz meat.

For an authentic German Fleischsalat, use German bologna, as it has a delicate flavor and texture. Second best is to use Italian Mortadella. While you can chop up both, just try to not use American bologna which now has acquired its own distinct, and I find strong, flavor.

Sausage

Use a Austrian/German Brühwurst (a collective name for several types of sausages that are cooked, not raw) such as lyoner, regensburger knackwurst. When Oma made this, she did not buy sausages for this dish, this was a dish to use up leftover sausages. So really, she would use what she had on hand. 

Photo of chopped deli meat and pickles
Photo by PattyCooks.

Barrel Pickles

German Barrel pickles are required, no American pickles please. Old fashioned barrel pickles are made with pickling cucumber, pickling spices, vinegar, dill, garlic, and salt. These ingredients are allowed to ferment in wooden barrels for weeks. These oak containers help process these veggies into great tasting and wonderfully crunchy pickles. In fact, there is a long history to pickling, starting in Asia and moving to Europe.

Mayonnaise

It is not hard to make your own, it just takes time and patience to emulsify one (room temp) egg yolk, pinch of salt, and 1C drizzled oil while continuing to whisk for 10 or 15 minutes. (Some people add a dash of Dijon mustard to help the emulsification.)

If you do not want to make your own, then please use the Swiss-made Thomy Mayonnaise since this mayo tastes differently from American mayonnaise. (Similar with Japanese food, I use Kewpie mayo instead of American mayo.) Often the difference is American mayo uses the whole egg, other countries use only the yolk. American mayo often contains lots of ingredients, other countries focus only on the basics with a preservative, and often adhere to strict yolk-to-oil ratios.

Another note about Northern Vs Southern Germans, mayo is generally used in the north, while southern Germans skip the creamy and just go for the vinegar. You also find this with potato salad, it is mayo based in the north and vinegar based in the south.

German Recipe Options

Simple quick Fleischsalat

  • Gather ingredients and set up a meat workstation.
  • Pull out German Bologna, German Barrel pickles, Thomy mayonnaise, salt and pepper.
  • Cut the bologna slices in half, and then into strips. Put these items into a bowl.
  • Dice the pickles and place into a bowl.
  • Add Mayo, some pickle juice, and salt and pepper, and mix.
  • Slice rolls for a sandwich, fill, and eat.

Fancy Fleischsalat

  • Gather ingredients and set up a meat workstation.
  • Pull out German Bologna, Italian Mortadella, German Barrel pickles, Thomy mayonnaise, red onion, parsley, chives, salt and pepper.
  • Cut the bologna slices in half, and then into strips. Put these items into a bowl.
  • Dice the pickles and place into the bowl.
  • Chop parsley leaves and chives, add to the bowl.
  • Thinly slice a bit of the red onion and add to the bowl.
  • Add Mayo, bit of pickle juice, and salt and pepper, and mix.
  • Eat as a salad or slice rolls for a sandwich, fill, and eat.

Quick Wurstsalat

  • Gather ingredients and set up a meat workstation.
  • Pull out a cooked German type sausage, German Barrel pickles, white wine vinegar, olive oil, red onion, parsley, salt and pepper.
  • Cut the sausages slices into strips and put these items into a bowl.
  • Chop parsley leaves and add to the bowl.
  • Slice a bit of the red onion and add to the bowl.
  • Add some vinegar, oil, pickle juice, and salt and pepper and mix.
  • Eat as a salad or slice rolls for a sandwich, fill, and eat.

Variations

  • Some areas will add mustard to the mayo, and even boiled eggs. Perhaps even a touch of paprika for a visual.
  • Some add chives instead of parsley, and cucumbers.
  • Or add sliced Emmental cheese for a Swiss variation.
  • Some add a bit of sour cream to the mayo, with a bit of sugar to temper the vinegar taste of the pickle juice.
  • Some add capers to up the salty tart taste.

Personally I like the the simple food best. I can either make or order all the ingredients, but it is the “crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside“ bread I have a hard time finding.

If you are a vegetarian I would be curious if this could be replicated with faux-meats? I have seen faux-bologna deli meats and perhaps that would work. Give it a try and let me know.

–Patty

–**–

News: Successful Farming Prices at supermarkets are rising at the highest rate in eight years, as the coronavirus constricts meat production and grocery chains limit sales, said the USDA in a monthly forecast. Grocery prices will rise by a higher-than-average 2.5% this year, double the previous estimate.

Quote: If the food is there, you are going to eat it, but the pricing very much affects how you are going to feel about your meal and how you will evaluate the restaurant.Ozge Sigirci, Cornell University Food and Brand Lab researcher, in a statement about her recent study that found diners reported enjoying the taste of food more when the price tag was higher (April 29)

News: NYMag 4/29 reports 80 Percent of Hospitalized COVID-19 Patients in Georgia Are African-American. It seems to me this is, unfortunately, one of the reason some people are all-in for reopening asap. Vox , WaPo, TeenVogue, USSUSA, and others speak to the possibility that there is a direct link between racist belief and the push for a quick reopening of the economy, including restaurants.

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