Chinese Oolong tea has a variety of flavors, depending on the plants’ location, climate, and processing decisions a tea master makes; and can range from light to full bodied, vegetal to stone fruity, mineral to woody, and toasty to sweet. Like white tea, oolong is not a type of tea often consumed by North Americans. So I tasted some that I had bought earlier, and here is my assessment.
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Types of Tea
There are six broad types of tea (1). I have already discussed the lightest tea in a post called, Learning that White Tea is Actually Good. This one is all about oolong teas, sort of considered the middle one that is oxidized more than green tea and less than black tea.
For the taste testing, I just used what I had in my tea cupboard. Luckily,I had a reasonable number of different teas on hand. I should also admit Red Robe has been one of my favorite oolong teas for years now.
Oolong Tea is Special
Oolong
What is specific about Oolong that makes it special?
First is its level of oxidation (2). Oxidation is part of the tea production process. It is a biochemical, enzymatic activity that happens through the tea leaves’ and buds’ exposure to oxygen, and starts as soon as the leaves are plucked.
- Green tea: kept from oxidation
- Yellow tea: also kept from oxidation
- White tea: has limited and slight oxidation: 8-15%
- Oolong tea: 15-80% oxidation
- Black tea: 100% oxidation
- Sheng Puerh: 0-5% (minimal spontaneous oxidation may occur)
- Shou Puerh: 100% oxidation
Second, Oolong is the widest and most versatile category of tea given the range in oxidation and roasting processes. This means its color and taste can vary significantly, I believe there is no “typical” oolong tea. But there are four regions that are considered oolong producing areas, that have produced main types: Formosa (Taiwan), Anxi, Phoenix, and Wuyi. I just happen to have teas from Anxi and Wuyi in my cupboards.
Third, out of all the teas, oolong critically depends upon the tea Master for its complexity, color, aroma, shape, and taste (3). This tea reflects fully the involvement of humans in its processing, for example, Oolong teas are traditionally rolled, twisted or curled into tight balls or thin strands just like the tea I am tasting. That is not to say the terroir is not significant too, because it is.
Wuyi and Anxi, China
I am tasting tea from two areas within the Fujian province, specifically from the Wuyi mountains and from Anxi. They are both well known for their tea, and it has been so for thousands of years.
Since half of the teas I am tasting come from mountains of Wuyi in Fujian province, note that the oolong teas, according to Wikipedia, were likely invented in the Wuyi region.
Wuyishan Fujian
This is generally considered the oldest tea province. Wuyi teas are generally dark, more heavily oxidized, varying between black teas and darker oolongs’ level of oxidation, and are typically twisted into thin strips rather than curled into a ballish shape like Anxi teas. So the Li family Red Robe is fired heavily in comparison to Master Zhang oolongs.
Popular oolong teas in this area are: da hong pao, shui xian, and rou gui. They each have their subtle differences, but they all share a similar signature, reflecting the terroir; a rocky or mineral taste that lingers in the throat. The two I am tasting are da hong pao and shui xian.
- Da hong pao: The best of this tea is from the Da hong pao (which means “red robe”) mother tea trees who have thousands of years of history, not something I am likely to afford. Verdant has access to tea trees related to the mother trees (clippings), but also tea trees growing in the same mountainous region. This is probably the best approximation of the original plants and environment.
- Shui xian: The infused color is a deep amber, characteristic for many other Wuyi oolong teas.
Anxi Fujian
Anxi is known as the Tea Capital of China as they purportedly grow some of the highest quality tea in the world high in the Wuyi Mountain Range. FAO writes, thanks to the unique physical geographic environment, Anxi has a long history of tea trees cultivation and tea making process. Indeed, Anxi has more than 1,000 years’ history of tea planting including the discovery of Tieguanyin plant 300 years ago and the creation of Oolong tea making techniques.
Contrasting Anxi teas to Wyui teas, Anxi teas are very light in color, do not have that mineral taste, and give off more of a a stone fruit aftertaste.
Healthy Tea
Because oolong tea is semi-oxidized, WebMD states this tea contains a range of antioxidants that are also found in other teas, including green and black. However, some research has shown that the nutrients in oolong tea have stronger antioxidant and anti-mutagenic effects than the green or black varieties.
- Antioxidants are nutrients that protect our cells from damage caused by aging, lifestyle choices, and the environment.
HealthLine reports specifically that Oolong tea may help decrease the risk of heart disease, stroke, and high blood pressure in some people, but more research is needed. In fact, many sites report that Oolong tea’s polyphenols activate an enzyme that breaks down triglycerides. Others state that Oolong tea is high in L-theanine, which is known to improve brain activity, provide better sleep quality, and reduces levels of stress and anxiety. Additionally, this tea apparantly has naturally occurring fluoride, thus also helping teeth.
Finally, oolong tea contains traces of vital vitamins and minerals; such as, calcium, copper, manganese, carotin, selenium, potassium, and magnesium. Here is a link to many studies on the benefits of oolong tea.
On the flip side, many Chinese (4) caution to not drink oolong tea with an empty stomach as it might induce headache or heart palpitations. Do not drink before going to sleep because it could keep you awake (caffeine). And some recommend if you drink the tea cold it might harm your stomach.
Political Side Note
In 1972, when USA President Nixon visited China, Chairman Mao Zedong gifted him 200g of actual Da Hong Pao, to represent peace and friendship between China and the USA. It was scandalous at the time because the amazing gift was under-appreciated (“it is just tea”), even though then a kilo of the tea was worth $30k (5).
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Taste Testing
Li Family: Full Roast Big Red Robe
This is my favorite oolong tea, that I have been buying and drinking since 2017. This is a tea I always have on hand, secure in my cupboards. I keep the tea in the Verdant bag, then in a lidded tin secure from light, heat, and oxygen. I like this tea first for its flavor and aroma, then for its story.
The Red Robe tea has a legend that involves an empire and its withering empress, a goddess appearing in a farmers dream, and a miraculous recovery.
Long ago, there was an emperor who fell in love with a woman from the mountains of Wuyi in Fujian province. She was taken to the imperial court to live out her life, surrounded by silk and jewels. One day she became sick with a longing for home and the rocky misty cliffs of Wuyi. Doctors were called from all the regions to locate a cure, as she was fading fast and nothing seemed to help. In desperation the Emperor made a proclamation to all his people for help.
A farmer living in the mountains of Wuyi in Xing Village, heard the proclamation and felt sadness for the empress. That night a goddess came in a dream, and revealed a cure on twisted bushes on the mountain. The next day he braved the elements, and climbed the cliffs where the bushes grew.
After returning home, the farmer sent the leaves to the empress. A very desperate emperor let the doctors steep the tea and serve it to the empress. As soon as her lips touched the tea she started to gain strength; for the tea reminded her of home and she was restored.
In gratitude, the emperor sent the farmer the symbolic red robes of nobility, and granted him land and status. In thanks, the farmer named the tea Big Red Robe. From then on, the farmer climbed the cliff each year to pick tea for the empress.
These bushes are still on the cliffs, and are considered a cultural and rare treasure. However, there are only 6 “mother trees” remaining on the cliffs of the Wuyi Mountains). Since these tea trees are rarely plucked, Verdant writes, the high-end Big Red Robes of China are closely related to the original bushes, since they were created by grafting clippings of the real bushes onto nearby tea bushes growing on the cliffs of Wuyi. So this tea is still related to the story.
I find the flavor grows with each steeping, so again I tend to do several steeps in the beginning and place them in a thermos to mingle and even out the flavor. The Li Family state the tea has: Notes of juniper, brown sugar, hibiscus, and rosewood. And I can get hints of some of that, but not in the first steeping.
Li Family: Full Roast Aged Big Red Robe
I had some of this aged, loose-leaf tea in my cupboard, that was picked in 2010. But, Verdant is out of that tea, so I provided a link to the 2013 harvest which is in cake form. While I imagine the various harvests all taste a bit differently, fundamentally they are likely similar at the base.
Compared to the Full Roast, this tastes to me as more complex, richer and leaves more of a creamy mouthfeel after swallowing.
Li Family: Shui Xian Wuyi Oolong Tea
Right from the start this tea struck me as floral, I had to smell the tea in the package again to make sure I smelled it properly. Smelling it as the tea brewed just reinforced the floral and fruity aromas. I just could not wait to give it a try.
The taste was gentle, and served up a bit of savory as an aftertaste. I am not the best when it comes to describing aromas and taste, but I am clear when I like something. This tea will be on my list for the tastes come through clearly.
Li Family: Full Roast Ten Year Aged Shui Xian
I have Li Family’s Full Roast Ten Year Aged Shui Xian that was harvested in 2007 from the volcanic soils in the Wuyishan Ecological Preserve. I mixed 5g of loose leaf tea with 2C hot water and steeped for a minute. The first steep was a full bodied with a nice mouthfeel, vegetal and mineral, yet hints of sweetness.
This Shui Xian Wuyi Oolong has been carefully re-roasted and rested each year for a decade according to Verdant. They write, the aging and careful roasting has brought out beautiful complexity in this tea, pairing Shui Xian’s compelling texture with the mineral sweetness and mustiness of age.
Verdant recommends pouring 1C of just below boiling water over 5g tea, and steep for 20 seconds for the first cup. Then steep for 10 seconds at a time for all subsequent steeps.
Master Zhang: The Original Tieguanyin Revival
Wikipedia states that Tieguanyin is a variety of Chinese oolong tea that originated in the 19th century in Anxi, Fujian. The tea leaves themselves appear individually rolled into little shapes that are very loosely rolled, and feel like little pellets. Master Zhang states in a video on the Verdant site that this is the original way the Tieguanyin tea was processed in his area.
To me, this is a toasty tasting tea, it coats the mouth and has a good after taste. Others call it floral, slightly sweet, and nutty.
The Tieguanyin tea has a legend (6) as well, it is about a poor farmer, a goddess’ temple, and blessings.
A run-down temple for Guanyin existed in Fujian’s Anxi County. Every day a poor farmer walked alongside it on the way to his tea fields. As he did, he would note its worsening conditions and think to himself that something had to done to fix it up. But, being poor, he lacked the means to do the repairs himself.
One day, he decided to take action, and walked to the temple with his broom and some incense, intending to sweep it clean, and light an incense offering to Guanyin, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. He did this act twice a month for some time. One night, Guanyin came to him in a dream, and spoke of a treasure hidden in a cave, and directed him to go there and share the treasure with others.
The farmer did as directed, and found a tea shoot, which he planted and nourished into a healthy and amazing tea bush. All his neighbors were given cuttings, and the village started harvesting the best tea in the area. They began selling the tea under the name Tieguanyin. Over time the village prospered, the temple was repaired, and the farmer continued his daily walk to his fields with joy in his heart and admiration for the temple.
Master Zhang: Original Wulong Revival
Both “oolong tea” and “wulong tea” refer to the same style of tea. Again Master Zhang says this style of processed tea is the original way Wulong tea was made in his area.
I found the tea soothing, and savory in aroma and taste.
Master Zhang: Autumn Tieguanyin
Today, I am brewing the Autumn 2017 tea, as I had a 5 gram sample pack not yet opened. It smelled savory upon opening, as did the aroma after I poured the hot water. But I was then amazed how lightly the tea was colored. Unfortunately, this tea is out of stock, but 2017, 2018, and 2023 harvests are available.
Tieguanyin tea flavor notes are often defined as roasted, nutty, creamy, fruity, toasty, honey, floral, fresh, vegetal and mineral. To me it really changes with each harvest and processing.
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I have had a wonderful week drinking oolong tea every day. All the teas were great, and really did reflect the areas they came from as well as the differences in processing.
Going into this, I already knew I liked Red Robe, so it did not surprise me that I still do. But I was surprised by the Shui Xian Wuyi Oolong tea and how sweet it tasted to my palate. Although I will continue to taste other oolong teas as they are released, these two will stay on my shelf.
Another thing I paid attention to was the changing flavor between steepings. Drinking tea with intention and attention really changes the experience. Especially when I try to jot down its aroma, flavor, aftertaste, mouthfeel, etc. An hour would fly by and I would not notice.
Try some of this tea and see what you think.
—Patty
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Please note that PattyCooks has been buying and drinking Verdant Teas for many years. But now is an affiliate of Verdant Teas (startingOct 2023). This means that if you choose to make a purchase through the links provided on this website, PattyCooks may receive a small commission. This commission will not increase your price, but will contribute toward covering the expenses associated with maintaining this website and blog. Your support is greatly appreciated, and rest assured that I only affiliate myself with brands that meet my standards of quality and business integrity. My site is not sponsored by any business or individual, but me.