The United Nations writes: It is estimated that there are more than 370 million indigenous people spread across 70 countries worldwide. When USA people think of Indigenous Peoples, their concepts are limited by what they have been exposed to such as: Inuits in Alaska (1) and Indigenous Polynesian people (or Kānaka Maoli), Native Peoples tribes across the USA (Navajo, Cherokee, Sioux, Chippewa, etc.), perhaps certain tribes in Africa (Zulu, Maasai, Karo, Ashanti, etc.), the Aboriginal peoples (2) in Australia, and the Māori in New Zealand. But indigenous people are actually recognized everywhere in the world, including Europe. So who are the indigenous people in Europe, and what foods and cooking techniques can they share with us today?
—**—
Indigenous People
Let me start this off acknowledging that identification of Indigenous People is wrought with politics and assumptions that are difficult to traverse. This is made even more difficult when trying to locate Indigenous European people, given the wave of human migration into the European continent over millennia. So let me tip-toe through this topic at a high level to get to my interest, which is Indigenous European cuisine.
Indigenous Denotation (Definition)
Let us start by defining what “indigenous” actually means, according to the United Nations.
- Self-identification as indigenous peoples at the individual level and accepted by the community as their member;
- historical continuity with pre-colonial and/or pre-settler societies;
- strong link to territories and surrounding natural resources;
- distinct social, economic or political systems;
- distinct language, culture and beliefs;
- form non-dominant groups of society;
- resolve to maintain and reproduce their ancestral environments and systems as distinctive peoples and communities.
If it were me, I would also add a point about food, where ingredients and cooking are connected to local landscapes and are intertwined with cultural and religious significance.
Indigenous Connotation (Feeling, Associations)
My purpose here is NOT to get into all the issues of “indigenous” as a word, but to argue that Europeans do in fact have indigenous peoples. So let me confront up front some misconceptions I believe exist among some well-intentioned people in the USA.
“Indigenous people cannot be Caucasian looking.”
No where in the definition of “indigenous” is skin color defined as a component. Over time, the European continent is where the caucasian skin tones seems to have evolved; but also over time people have intermingled genetically. As such, it makes sense that there may be indigenous people who match the variety of skin tones humans currently exhibit.
- European naturalists and anthropologists noted that “race” or racial terms were created in 1735 by the publication of the book Systema Naturae by Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus (3).
The point being made is that color of skin, or how people look, cannot be used to define aspects of being a member of an indigenous people.
“Indigenous people are primitive.”
Some expect “indigenous” to imply a sense of being closer to the land, foraging off the land, and living a more nomadic type of existence; all of which is implied to be a more primitive life style. This is absurd at its face, as nowhere is “indigenous” equal to “primitive”.
These two words, indigenous and primitive, are definitionally related, as they both provide a sense of time, as in “first”. But “indigenous” is a descriptor about a people, whereas “primitive”, in this context, is an emotional and political assessment of those people by the majority.
The point here is that indigenous people can live modernly, on or off their own land, partake in the regional or country’s majority traditions, and still be identified as a member of an indigenous people.
“Europe does not have indigenous people.”
Some argue indigenous peoples only exist in lands outside of Europe because “indigenous” is partially defined as pre-colonial and there is no such thing in Europe since they were the colonialists.
First is that not all colonialists were European, look at deep history and you will find peoples colonizing lands around them as they expanded influence. Second, the definition of “indigenous” says pre-colonizing or pre-settler, so I added a map of moving tribal influence in Europe (below) shows those changes over thousands of years.
To identify indigenous peoples of Europe look to peoples who have traditionally lived on particular European lands for multi-thousands of years and who have a unique language (not just accents), specific cultural traditions, and a cuisine that is directly related to their environment. These people have traditional boundaries that may not adhere to country boundaries. They also have their own political and social institutions, and are proud to maintain their distinctions from their neighbors.
The point here is that European indigenous people are not necessarily darker or lighter skinned, short or tall, blue eyed or brown; but are uniquely defined by their location or travel, language, and their culture; their cuisine is further defined by the land and their unique culture and histories.
Science Sometimes Proves
Research and studies of a scientific nature do not really help with definitions of “indigenous” within Europe. For example, Science reports that the Basques of northern Spain, who have a distinct language, have long thought themselves a people apart. But last year, population geneticist Mattias Jakobsson of Uppsala University in Sweden reported that the DNA of modern Basques is most like that of the ancient farmers who populated northern Spain before the Yamnaya migration. In other words, Basques are part of the usual European mix, although they carry less Yamnaya DNA than other Europeans. In many circumstances, names of peoples are more a cultural term than a real, identifiable “indigenous” difference in biology or genetics from local similar peoples. And that does not and should not take away from indigenous claims.
The point here is that official genetic studies do not always provide clear direction when looking at certain aspects of human populations. The science is only one part of many aspects that make up identity and culture.
Summary
The points being made above should lead one to understand that an “indigenous” people can be Europeans. But also, it can be real hard to figure out who should actually be able to use these terms for what works in the USA for a definition, does not work in all parts of the world with a different deep time history.
European Peoples + Tribes over Time
European Tribes
Like the USA, before modern borders, Europe was a large land divided by tribe boundaries. These tribes spoke different languages, had differing religions and cultural activities, and differing foods since they were bound by what was readily available in the land they occupied.
In general, now only certain peoples are considered to be Indigenous Europeans, and are generally living in the far North and far East of the continent, or are travelers between the lands.
Northern and Western European
Indigenous People
Below is a small sampling from Northern and Western Europe based on a list from Wikipedia and UN documents. This is not a complete list, but shows that indigenous people are located in all places around this world, even in places perhaps you did not expect. Even though I have done the research, I could still be misstating groups of people, so please forgive in advance for any errors, and importantly let me know so I can correct them!
Officially Recognized
- The Sami (once called Laplanders) are indigenous to Sápmi in northern Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola peninsula. They are a nomadic people that travel with the reindeer.
- Uralic Nenets, Samoyed, and Komi peoples of northern Russia, but also Russia is home to 160 distinct peoples, including 40 officially recognized indigenous peoples.
- Basque peoples in Spain, and in France.
- Inuits in Greenland.
Travelers or Roma
- Ireland’s Travellers were recognized as indigenous in 2017 due in part to genetic differences from their neighbors. They are not Roma, but are related to early Irish people.
- The Yenish people are former itinerate group of nomads that currently live in mainly Germany, but also France, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium, and Luxembourg. They are decedents of Romani Gypsies and are considered indigenous (6).
- The Indigenous Norwegian Travellers in southern and southwestern Norway.
- Voyageurs in Flanders.
- Indigenous Dutch Travellers in the Netherlands.
Some Possible Additions
- The Sorbian people of Germany and Poland. Some consider these people an ethnic minority within Germany, descendent from Slavic Tribes (5).
- While not currently recognized, Scotland’s Crofters consider themselves as indigenous
- Scotland’s St Kildans (or Hiortaich of St Kilda) are considered indigenous.
- Vaqueiros de alzada in Asturias and northern Castile and León.
- Mercheros (or Quinqui people) in northern Spain.
- The Camminanti of Southern Italy, especially Sicily.
Some Known + Unknown Cuisines
Some of these groups I am aware of from my years living in Europe. I know just a bit, however, so am making just a few, broad level comments about what I know. Meanwhile I will be adding these specific groups to my list of cuisines I would like to explore over time.
Basque People
Wikipedia outright states Basques are indigenous to and primarily inhabit an area traditionally known as the Basque Country (Basque: Euskal Herria), a region that is located around the western end of the Pyrenees on the coast of the Bay of Biscay and straddles parts of north-central Spain and south-western France.
Some have argued the Basque are indeed indigenous people, by claiming studies showing that the genetic patterns and makeup of the Basques is different to that of their neighbors. One study, looked at some old remains, dated between ∼5,500 (Chalcolithic) and ∼3,500 (Bronze Age), in the El Portalón cave (Atapuerca, Spain) and came to conclusions: Basques may be a remnant population that connects back to the Paleolithic.The El Portalón individuals showed the greatest genetic affinity to Basques, which suggests that Basques and their language may be linked with the spread of agriculture across Europe. One study has shown, early Iberian farmers are the closest ancestors to present-day Basques.
Researchers and academics, (Discover), indicate that the Basque language is not related to any other language in the world; it is a linguistic isolate. In fact, some think that their language alone is enough to signal its origin (Nabasque).
I have cooked some Basques recipes and find the food really interesting. The recipes I have read about are heavily fish oriented (especially cod, tuna, and kokotxas fish heads), other seafood (squid, eels) and meats. But critical veggie-based ingredients are tomatoes, potatoes, olive oil, and sweet or hot peppers.
- Like peoples everywhere, they had a flat bread called Talo, which is made from corn flour and water. Today this historical regional bread is now a street food favorite.
- Chistorra is a fast-cured pork sausage made from the belly or the jowl, or sometimes it is minced pork and beef sausage. The sausage is fried, grilled or even baked and is used for tapas or as a side to other dishes.
Wikipedia writes: Gastronomic societies are organisations, almost always of men, who cook and eat together in a communal txoko.
Some of the Basque food I made included Basque Garlic Vinegar Fish.
Saami People
The Sinchi Foundation writes that The Saami seem to be the oldest native Europeans still existing within tribal context today. Their culture can be traced back about 6,000 years ago when they travelled between a big part of what is now called Scandinavia and Russia. These people still live and herd their reindeer in the same areas. Many have found it striking how dissimilar the features of Saami people can be, some look very caucasian, however, a lot of them also look strikingly Asian in appearance.
The first mention of these Nordic peoples was in the first century AD. Similar to indigenous peoples everywhere, it has been documented that historically there has been a steady move to curtailing civil and political rights, and suppressing culture and language. Especially from the 1800’s to now (4, 5).
The Saami people were previously known as Laplanders, for those of you with long memories.
Traditional Sami food was based on wild and foraged food, such as fish and seafood, reindeer and other game, and berries, plants, lichens, or herbs that grew wild. As with other Arctic peoples, the main diet was fresh, dried, salted, and smoked meat and seafood as that was what was readily available year round. But overall, and critically, the reindeer is the focal point of their culture and food. Historically, the Sami used every bit of the reindeer to sustain their community.
[Facebook Post on some Sami food https://fb.watch/ciFK5bXmCb/]
Potatoes and flat bread are also very important to their nutrition. Originally the bread was made from wheat flour and water with a touch of salt. Then when needing more sustenance and a hardier bread, they would add barley or rye flour and groats, along with mountain sorrel and reindeer lichen. Now, although still flatish, it has become a sweet, yeast bread.
The bread was served with stew as their cooking style included a tradition of slow cooking food in pots, as in renkok or reindeer stew. I have tasted reindeer stew many years ago at a European restaurant, but have never made it myself; I found the meat fairly easy to chew, not really all that gamey, and pretty mild tasting. The stew was well seasoned and I cleaned my bowl.
Yennish Peoples
The Yenish are known as a Western European itinerant group located mostly in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Luxembourg, Belgium and parts of France; centered around the Rhineland. Wikipedia notes they resemble the Scottish and Irish Travellers. Most of the Yenish have become sedentary in the course of the mid-19th to 20th centuries. During the Nazi persecution of gypsies, Yenish people were included under that generic heading.
According to TravellersVoice: Yenish people claim that they are descended from the ancient Celtic Helveti tribe who settled in the mountainous regions of Switzerland and engaged in warfare with the Roman Empire in the century following the birth of Christ. Others argue otherwise. Regardless, according to the ERRC, the 3 main communities of Gypsies in Central Europe are the Yenish (German speakers said to be of German origin), Sinti and Roma.
What I cannot find is a website discussing Yennish food. EHow identifies Gypsy food in general terms, typical Romani foods include wild game and birds, potatoes, rice and vegetables such as onions, swedes and cabbage. These foods tend to be prepared as stews, or fried and are highly seasoned with ground black pepper and hot chili peppers. There is no reason to think the Yennish are different, but I cannot find any information. Yet.
Closure
Oh my goodness is this a large topic. All I can say is that Indigenous People have a commonality of oppression and genocide, denial of civil and political rights, and their traditional lands and ways of living have been and still are often violated. Their religion is often denied, as is their language, and the common history of the land often ignores them.
The food styles tend to be utilizing all of the land on which they live: hunting, fishing, trapping meat-based protein, foraging for veggies, fruits, and herbs. Food and community is the base of their culture so that food is often shared communally to assure the community survives.
But also lives have historically been harsh, as these are also the medically unrepresented, sicker at high rates, and underserved by all social institutions except prison and the morgue. For many, their children have been taken away, their culture denied, and swift harsh penalties often followed them wherever they go.
This is a sad state of affairs, although many have managed to retain or relearn a sense of community, they are fighting for their rights, in some cases relearning their languages, and importantly relearning how to make their own foods and medicines. Thus reclaiming their song, their dance, and their cuisine.
—Patty
—**—
