Mustard is one of the great condiments, in my humble opinion. My spouse and I always have a variety of mustards in our fridge and pantry. Yes, I can make it myself, but there are some that I cannot replicate, because of the terroir. If you love mustard this is the post to read.
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History of Mustard
The Plant
Mustard is a wild plant (with 40 species) that produces seeds, that when ground and combined with a liquid (such as water, vinegar, lemon juice, wine, etc.), salt, and flavorings, creates a mustard mash or sauce that is hot, pungent, and spicy.
- Black mustard: Brassica nigra originating from the Middle East and Asia Minor is hard to find for it is grown high up in the mountains and must be hand picked. When young the whole plant is edible (1).
- Brown mustard: Brassica juncea from the Himalayas used in Indian and Chinese mustards
- White/yellow mustard: Brassica hirta from the Mediterranean basin (mildest)
SeriousEats makes clear that mustard’s pungency and heat comes from chemical reactions, specifically, a set of sulfur compounds (an enzyme called myrosinase and the mustard oil glycosides). While the seed itself is not hot, grind that seed to release its oils, add a liquid, and boom, you have an explosion of heat. This sinus cleansing aspect of mustard is in fact, the plants chemical defense against insects.
Freshly made mustard can also exhibit a certain bitterness. This will wear away after a few days, so if you make fresh mustard let it sit and mellow a bit before using.
Online medical sites mention that mustard greens contain oxalates, so if prone to oxalate kidney stones do not eat, or at least limit consumption. Generally however, young mustard greens are generally safe to eat (2).
Mustard Traveled all Over
Hekint writes: According to archaeologists and botanists, mustard seeds have been found in Stone Age settlements. During the Sumer period of Mesopotamia, the Sumerians would grind the mustard seed into a paste and mix it with verjus, the juice of unripe grapes, which is highly acidic. Many believe the word ”mustard” came from the word “Mosto” or “grape muss” (a young unfermented wine) which was one of the ingredients in their mustard condiment.
Other archaeological excavations in the Indus Valley revealed that mustard was cultivated there prior to 1850 BCE. But China and Africa were also involved in the beginning, by consuming mustard greens and grinding the plant seeds to make a paste from 1046-256 BCE. But, like many dishes, ingredients, or condiments, people trace the historical record of mustard back to the ancient Egyptians.
In fact, some think mustard was one of the first crops to be domesticated. From the Egyptians, to the Romans, to the Greeks, the use of this spice for culinary and medicinal purposes has been well documented.
- Mustard seeds were found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.
It finally moved on to France, and wound up in the hands of monks, who commercialized mustard as one of many income-generating activities.
Prepared mustard, that is the condiment we know in the jar ready to use, began in Dijon, France ~13th century. This was supported and even encouraged by the mustard loving Pope John XXll of Avignon. Such a lover of mustard was he, that he created the position of Grand Moustardier du Pape.
- In the 1770s, Maurice Grey and Antoine Poupon introduced Grey Poupon Dijon mustard.
- In 1904 at the St. Louis World’s Fair, the R.T. French Comapny introduced the American (USA) Yellow Mustard.
The Formula
By itself, the ground seed in powdered form is not really pungent or hot. Those components of mustard only blossom when liquid is added to the powder. Among experts it is known that:
- Mustards made with vinegar will have a long-lasting, slow burn
- Those made with less acidic liquids will be extremely pungent when freshly prepared, but it will quickly dissipate
- Hot water will deactivate mustard enzymes and break down some of the pungent compounds
- Cold water will keep the compounds intact
Mustard’s Dark Side
Humans are good at turning beneficial products into death and misery. Mustard the condiment led to mustard gas in WWI. Mustard making has sulfur as one of its by products and contains dangerous oils. So mustard continues even today to be used as a component of chemical warfare. There is no cure for the consequences of using this chemical oil.
But also, research is looking into converting the byproducts away from warfare and toward biodiesel production.
Mustard Variations
Buying mustard seeds, grinding them, adding the liquids of your choice and spices if you desire, is cheaper than buying prepared mustards. There are many interesting mustard sites on the internet to help, one, TheNibble,has a great series of mustard qualifiers that I use in my notes below. Other sites speak of using special equipment (non-reactive pots, pans, or bowls) and provide tips (have windows open and vents on when making).
American Yellow Mustard
This mustard has a bright, sharp taste that fits perfectly with fatty meat like hamburgers and processed meats like hotdogs or deli sandwiches. In fact, in 1904 it was also called the Ballpark Mustard for its prevalence on hotdogs. Even those that do not eat meat add this condiment to a soy-dog and that same level of comfort food enjoyment can be had.
- American Yellow Mustard
- Add 1/4C water in a non-reactive bowl
- 4T dry ground yellow mustard
- 3T white distilled vinegar
- 1/2t Wondra flour
- 1/4t plus 1/8t kosher salt
- 1/8t turmeric
- Pinch garlic powder
- Pinch paprika
Wondra is an old-timey special flour used for gravies that creates smoothness and for mustard will help temper the heat as well.
Type of mustard seed: Yellow/white
Liquid: Vinegar based
Color: Bright yellow, often by adding tumeric
Heat level: Low, considered mild
Use: American (USA) yellow mustard, condiment for fast food and sandwiches such as hot dogs, ham burgers,
Chinese Mustard
This mustard is often one of a take-out Chinese condiment pack of soy sauce, chili oil, duck sauce and then this hot mustard. When younger I thought this was a special mustard, made differently to achieve that amazing sinus clearing properties — even a whiff of this mustard would start my eyes tearing and nose leaking. However, nothing in this recipe is unique, what it is relates to the actual power of this plant’s seeds.
A note about mustard powder. The yellow seeds are first dehydrated, and then ground into a buttery looking, fine, beige powder. The only powder I am familiar with is Colman’s English Mustard, but there is also a Chinese powder.
- Chinese Hot Mustard
- In a non-reactive bowl whisk 1T mustard powder
- With 1/8t kosher salt
- And 1/8t white pepper
- And 1-1/2t hot water
- And 1/2t vegetable oil (neutral flavor)
- And 1/2t rice vinegar (this will mellow the heat, omit and it will be very hot)
- Then let rest for ~10-15 minutes, whisk again, taste
Type of mustard seed: Brown
Liquid: Water based
Color: Tannish yellow
Heat level: Sinus clearing, eyes watering, pungent and hot
Use: Part of American Chinese takeout history, I consider this as a condiment and do not cook with it.
I use this hot dipping sauce for bbq’d sliced pork, egg rolls, won tons, crab rangoon and other fried appetizers. But also a bit of it on chicken nuggets and popcorn shrimp would taste great.
Deli Mustard
This mustard is also known as ”deli mustard” for it does well on meaty sandwiches.
- Spicy Deli Mustard
- Soak 3/4C brown mustard seeds in 1C white wine vinegar overnight
- Add to a blender and add the rest of the ingredients listed below
- 2t Kosher salt
- 1/2t turmeric
- 1/4t ground allspice
- 1/4t ground ginger
- 1/4t ground cinnamon
- 1/8t ground nutmeg
- Add water 1T at a time, as needed for the right consistency
- Refrigerate for 2-3 days to settle
Type of mustard seed: Brown
Liquid: Vinegar based, but not much vinegar
Color: Light brown and visible specs of spices or seeds
Heat level: High
Use: Deli sandwiches, sausages
Dijon and French Mustard
The New York Times wrote this year that the number one consumer of mustard is France, at 2.2# per person.
What sets French mustards apart is the use of grape-must as the liquid. Must is the first step in wine making, and is the freshly crushed fruit juice that contain skins, seeds, and stems of the grape fruit. These musts can be from Bordeaux or Burgundy grapes for instance, or cognac.
Type of mustard seed: Brown or black
Liquid: Acidic juice from unripe grapes or white wine
Color: Creamy earth-tone yellow
Heat level: Medium to High
Use: Sauces, dressings, marinades, mayo and aioli
Dry Mustards
This is a container of the ground up mustard seed, like Colmans. This can be used as part of a rub mix, or marinade. Or add liquid and make your own mustard mix.
Faux Wasabi
People outside of Japan rarely actually taste Wasabi (Wasabia Japonica). What we often get is a mix of mustard, horseradish (Amoracia Rusticana), and cornstarch that is died green. Faux wasabi can be considered a mustard variation in terms of what it can add to a dish. Real wasabi is not a mustard.
German Mustard (senf)
Let me begin by saying there is no one type of German mustard, we love mustard and use it for all sorts of purposes. Historically, it is thought that Germans use mustard often in their dishes (since medieval times) because the land did not produce the range of spices available in other areas.
Mustard is often sold in tubes or glass jars with a mild, medium or hot version. What we add to our mustards may be spices, but also extra heat from ingredients like horseradish.
- Senfkörner: whole seed mustard that can be used to season sauces or meat.
- Senfpulver: dry powder that is often used in cooking as it is easily mixable with other ingredients.
- Senf: common prepared mustard
- Düsseldorf Mustard: sweet but also sour, has its own serving dish (Mostertpöttche)
- Bavarian Mustard: sweet mustard that has white or brown sugar added
Honey Mustard
This type of mustard is used most often as a dipping sauce (for chicken nuggets) or as a base for a salad dressing. All you need to do is add honey to your favorite mustard and you have a version of honey mustard.
Type of mustard seed: Yellow.
Liquid: Vinegar based with honey
Color: Soft tannish yellow
Heat level: Low, considered mild
Use: American (USA) yellow mustard used as a dip for chicken nuggets, popcorn shrimp, and in salad dressings.
Italian Mostarda
This is a Northern Italian fruit mustard. It is made from whole fruits (fresh or dried), sugar syrup, and mustard oil. When I have tasted this combination, I immediately thought chutney. This is not an everyday condiment in the USA, but I have seen it on some cheese, crackers, and fruit platters as well as charcuterie.
Japanese Mustard
Japanese mustard, otherwise known as karashi, is a yellow mustard used for Natto, Oden, and many other foods. The mustard is a lot spicier than other mustards due to the addition of horseradish. In Japan it can be purchased in powder or paste form.
- Japanese mustard
- Buy premade powdered karashi (horseradish already included in the prepared paste or powder)
- Add warm water
- Whisk and let it combine
Some people mix this mustard with their soy sauce. It is used with nattō, tonkatsu, dumplings, etc. Can be used as a pickling agent, or even as seasoning when added to stews.
Type of mustard seed: Brown
Liquid: Water based
Color: Tannish yellow
Heat level: Sinus clearing, eyes watering, pungent and hot
Use: Dip
Whole Grain Mustard
This mustard is one I love, as growing up in Germany this was the one we used a lot. The difference is that while the seeds are crushed, they are not all crushed fully so the seeds are visible in the mustard.
Type of mustard seed: Brown or black
Liquid: Wine
Color: A sauce where the seeds are extremely visible
Texture: Thick and coarse
Heat level: High
Use: Marinades, dressings, dips, condiment, etc.
Salutations
That is about all I have on mustard. I use it for sandwiches, as part of marinades, and generally when I want to emulsify anything (mayo, salad dressings, etc). Mustards do taste different, they have different colors, and levels of heat. Try a few different ones and you may be surprised.
—Patty
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