Colcannon is Irish Bia Baile

Cooking colcannon with a chopped ham steak. Photo by PattyCooks.

Colcannon is a traditional creamy Irish mashed potatoes dish made with cabbage or kale, scallions or leeks, and butter. But there are many variations, and special ways to use up the leftovers. In my kitchen, this dish is often transformed into an epic ”dump dish.” The thing is, this is a very tasty, and satisfying comfort food, that also is inexpensive and can fill many bellies with nutritious food. What touches me personally, is how the ingredients for this dish are totally Irish, but European as well, think about it; potatoes and cabbage are basic across many countries in Europe. What a great combination!

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Colcannon History

Cabbage has been in Ireland for a very long time, according to AgiHorticulture, the Celts of central and western Europe had much to do with the distribution and popularization of cabbage as a food plant. Although the evidence points to the eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor as the place of origin of the species, Celtic knowledge of it was so ancient as to have influenced the Latin name, Brassica (from the Celtic word bresic, meaning “cabbage”).

During the Roman times, it seems as though they only knew of a loose leafed, Savoy-type of cabbage. The green round, hard, compact cabbage was only first noted in 1536 in Europe.

The FarmersAlamic writes that during the 17th and 18th centuries, potatoes, cabbage, and leeks were considered foods of the common man. So it makes perfect sense that one of the country’s most popular dishes would combine these ingredients. It’s not uncommon to find a colcannon recipe printed on the back of a bag of potatoes in Ireland.

The ingredients in colcannon join ancient Irish ingredients (kale, leeks, onions, cabbage) and more modern ingredients (potatoes) to create an inexpensive yet hearty dish.

When you consider that between 1820 and 1860,  over a third of American immigrants were Irish, and along with them came their traditions and of course their food. They introduced colcannon to American cuisine and it is now served in many places on Saint Patrick’s Day.  

WhatsCookingAmerica writes, that one of the favorite ways to enjoy a plate of colcannon is to make a large mountain shaped pile on your plate, then make a big well or hole in the center of the pile.  A generous pat of butter is placed in the hole which quickly melts.  Then cream is poured around the outside of the colcannon pile.  One is to take a spoonful of colcannon and dip it into the well of melted butter and experience a bite of heaven.

Etymology

Most say the colcannon’s name comes from Gaelic, cál (cabbage) and caineann (white head). Others argues “Cál” is Irish for “cabbage,” and “cainnen” is old Irish translations of garlic, onion, and leek. I do not know which is correct, but both make sense.

Historical References

The history I reference here comes from FoodTimeLine.

1735 – Earliest reference to mashed potatoes and cabbages in Diary of William Bulkely, of Bryndda, near Amlwch in Anglesey, who made two journeys to Dublin in 1735.

  • “Dined at Cos. Wm. Parry, and also supped there upon a shoulder of mutton roasted and what they call there Coel Callen, which is cabbage boiled, potatoes and parsnips, all this mixed together. They eat well enough, and is a Dish always had in this Kingdom on this night.”

1847 – Earliest reference in the USA was in Mrs. Crowen’s American Lady’s Cookery Book, Mrs. T.J. Crowen [Dick & Fitzgerald: New York] 1847 (p.194)

  • “Cabbage and Potatoes.- Chop cold boiled cabbage and potatoes quite fine; put them together, season with butter, pepper and salt, add a very little vinegar to hopt water, to moisten without making it wet, put it into a stew-pan over the firs, stir it well, that is may be thoroughly heated, but not burn; then take it into a dish, and serve for breakfast, or with cold boiled salt meat for dinner.”

When to Cook Colcannon?

All the cooking sites I visited say this dish is served during Saint Patrick’s day. Which is especially true here in the USA.

Wikipedia: An Irish Halloween tradition is to serve colcannon with a ring and a thimble hidden in the dish. Prizes of small coins such as threepenny or sixpenny bits were also concealed inside the dish. Other items could include a stick indicating an unhappy marriage, and a rag denoting a life of poverty.

I personally would, and will, cook this dish anytime I wanted and not limit it to a holiday. This is a great, healthy dish that fills the body with yum.

What’s the Difference Between Champ and Colcannon?

Champ and colcannon are both similar, and favorite Irish mashed potato dishes. The North Irish Champ (1) features potatoes, spring onions (scallions), butter and milk; while colcannon uses potatoes and adds cabbage, kale, or leeks and generally does not use milk.

The milk is warmed with the scallions, so that as the infused milk is added to the potatoes, it introduces a very great aromatic milk, and butter, to the whole mixture. But, per usual, there are many variations of champ throughout Ireland. The green onions can be substituted with leeks, chives, parsley, parsnip, garlic or even young nettles in some recipes.

Traditional Colcannon + Variations

Traditional Colcannon, first version with blended minced greens and no milk.

Potatoes – Kale – Scallions – Butter – Seasoning

First version is pretty basic with boiling potatoes, and then ricing them. Adding butter to the potatoes and mixing them up. Blanching the kale and placing them into a food processor with the scallions, to make a finely diced chop. Folding in the green mixture into the mash and mix well, seasoning to taste.

  • Boiled floury Potatoes (the closest in the USA would be Russet potatoes) peeled
  • Blanched curly kale leaves
  • Sliced scallions (green and white parts) or spring onions
  • Unsalted Irish or European butter
  • Kosher salt and ground pepper to taste

Potatoes – Cabbage – Butter – Warm Milk – Seasoning

Second version is about making the mixture creamy. Same instructions as above, but replace kale with cabbage, and add in warm milk or cream with the butter and mix the mash so it is creamy.

  • Boiled floury Potatoes (the closest in the USA would be Russet potatoes) 
  • Pan fried cabbage slices
  • Sliced scallions (green and white parts) or Leeks
  • Unsalted Irish or European butter 
  • Warmed whole milk or cream
  • Kosher salt and ground pepper to taste
Another traditional dish with bacon and unpeeled potatoes.

Potatoes – Cabbage – Scallions – Butter – Bacon

Third version is similar to the other recipes but contains meat. Start with boiling potatoes, and then ricing them. Adding butter to the potatoes and mixing them up. Pan fry the chopped cabbage and scallions. Add to the potato mixture. Fry bacon and fold the meat into the mash and mix well, seasoning to taste. (I would pan fry the cabbage in the bacon drippings.)

Potatoes – Cabbage – Scallions – Butter – Milk – Cheese

This is from KerryGoldUSA and has a very different approach to this dish. Start with boiling potatoes, and then ricing them. Adding butter to the potatoes and mixing them up. Pan fry the chopped cabbage and onions in butter. Add to the potato mixture and grated cheese (Dubliner® Cheese or Blarney Castle cheese), and then seasoning to taste.

Hints

  • Skin the potatoes if using Russet or other hard skinned tubers, otherwise you can leave the skin on.
  • Depending upon size, cut the potatoes so the cook through and through
  • Do not use cold liquid to moisten potatoes, always use warm milk or cream.
  • To keep potatoes from becoming a watery mess, remove from the water as soon as they are boiled fork soft, and to drain them well for a few minutes in the colander.
  • If potatoes are mixed too long they become, and taste, gluey. So I stopped using hand mixers to make mashed potatoes and started using ricers.
  • Potatoes will soak up tasty liquid so long as they are warm.

Breakfast Left-Overs Variations

Colcannon Pancakes

This is a savory and filling breakfast that uses left over colcannon. You take the left overs out of the fridge so it can achieve room temp, which makes it easier to mix in flour and egg. Then place in the fridge for ~15 to 20 minutes to firm up. From that point, form into balls and flatten them for frying in a cast iron skillet with butter.

  • ~3C left over, room temperature colcannon
  • ~1C potato flour
  • 1 egg
  • 4T unsalted European butter for frying
  • Season to taste

To keep this dish gluten free, use potato flour. But you can use any flour you want, although some, like garbanzo flour, will change the flavor. If the mix is too wet add more flour and if too dry add some melted butter or a little bit of milk.

Top with sourcream and chives, with a side of eggs.

Colcannon Croquettes

Colcannon Croquettes

Using left over colcannon, let it achieve room temperature and mix in potato flour and a small bit of your favorite cheese. Then put ~2T of the mix into your hand and roll into a small cigar, or tube shape, or even just a ball; whatever form you like you should make. (I happen to like the cigar-type, for it reminds me of schupfnudeln, a German potato dumpling.)

Roll the “cigar” into panko and fry in melted butter and olive oil in a cast iron skillet.

  • ~3C colcannon
  • ~1C potato flour
  • ½C grated Dubliner® Cheese
  • ~2C panko crumbs (or gluten free panko)
  • Avocado oil (up to 1/2” in skillet)
  • Season with salt and pepper to taste

Make sure to not over load the skillet, leave room between the croquettes so they can get crusty all over. Serve as a side to eggs and protein of your choice.

Chef Hu Thornton variation with smashed potatoes. Photo snip from ChowHound.

Colcannon Hash

Chef Hu Thornton (with English/Irish roots) did a variation of this recipe that turned it into a hash meal. Instead of making Colcannon a mashed potato meal, he made a smashed, chunky potato mixture with the same butter, onions, cabbage and seasoning. Folded the now crispy lump of potatoes into an omelet style oval and served that with a sunny side egg on top, and a slice of ham on the side.

My Colcannon is a Dump Dish

All the veggies I was going to add, some really had to be used while some were plucked from my garden (chard, parsley). Photo by PattyCooks.

I first prepped by washing all the veggies, and then chopped them into the sizes I wanted. I added some items that were going to turn in a day or two, the carrots and celery, so added them even when it was totally not in any sense a real colcannon dish. I washed and placed all the halved, little yellow potatoes in salted water to boil.

Boiling potatoes in salted water, and sautéing the veggies. Photo by PattyCooks.

Then sautéed, in butter, all the veggies. After the potatoes were fork-tender they were riced back into the hot pot, along with butter. Then I mixed in the veggies into the potatoes while frying half a ham steak as a side.

My very veggie version of colcannon. Photo by PattyCooks.
  • Potatoes: I used small yellow potatoes
  • Red onion: It should be yellow onions but I had half a red in the fridge.
  • Leek
  • Celery
  • Chard
  • Cabbage
  • Carrots
  • Parsley
  • Butter
  • Salt and Pepper

Salutation

I buy Dubliner® Cheese at Costco, or use Tillamook Sharp Cheddar.

For the potatoes, I like yellow fleshed since they are often very creamy.

For the veggies you can use any leafy green you favor. You could add collard greens, chard, kale, spring onions, scallions, your choice. I like adding a bit of other color, so add in some carrots or parsnips. Really add what you love.

Although colcannon is served in the USA as a side dish, my spouse has eaten it as the main meal and enjoyed it. Being a potato-head myself, I too would eat it by itself and would feel very happy. Just don’t do the USA thing and serve gravy over it – this is a meal simply delicious by itself. Perhaps I will add this to my holiday menus from now on.

Stick all the way with unsalted European butter for a creamier taste. Please see my post specifically on butter: With Enough Butter, Anything is Good.

Final note, while I love red cabbage, I would not use it in this dish for it would turn the whole color pinkish. It is one thing to create variations on a theme, but red cabbage would change the texture, color and taste. It would no longer be in the colcannon tradition.

Hope you try and enjoy this food. Let me know.

—Patty

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