Mushrooms

Mushroom variety from Monterey Market. Photo by PattyCooks.

Mushrooms are a wonderful food ingredient used by high-end chefs and everyday cooks alike for their umami flavor, as well as their meaty texture. What they add to our nutrition includes protein, B vitamins, fiber, beta-glucans, and other bioactive compounds. But also there are several things they do not add: cholesterol, gluten, lots of fat, sugars, sodium, or calories. There will be more posts on this ingredient, but it has to start somewhere, so here is my overview on mushrooms.

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Mushroom Basics

A mushroom is, in general, simply the reproductive structure produced by some fungi (1). It pops up from under the ground, blooms in its own way, and disperses its seeds (called spores) on the wind. Then it withers and dies, while the base structure of the mushroom, called the mycelium, continues to root about underground. The “body” of the mushroom is that mycelium while the “fruit” is the mushroom we love to cook.

Fungi are their own kingdom, similar to plants or animals. They are very unique, receiving nourishment as part of their relationship with trees and plants around them. For some, their relationship with trees is very symbiotic, where they absorb water and minerals from the tree roots, and give important nutrients in return. But also, some mushrooms are parasites that can cause problems for trees, by damaging the roots.

In other cases, they secrete enzymes to digest and absorb the nutrients around them, for instance by consuming wood, fallen leaves, or dead animals. Without the fungi consuming and adding the nutrients from rotting and decaying life, there would be no rich soil in which all the plants living now grow.

Many animals like rodents rely on mushrooms for food, slugs enjoy eating them, and certain types of flies spend their lives on and in mushrooms. Animals, including us humans, should be cautious though as we can be poisoned by mushrooms. So just going out and foraging for mushrooms is not advised. Humans need to be taught how to identify edible mushrooms and even still, it is easy to make mistakes.

MedicineNet writes that there are four types of mushrooms: saprotrophic, mycorrhizal, parasitic, and endophytic. Wikipedia provided the definitions.

  • Saprotrophic mushrooms are decomposers. They release acids and enzymes that break down dead tissue into smaller molecules they can absorb. Thus decaying wood, plants, and even animals can become food for a saprotroph.
  • A mycorrhiza is a mutual symbiotic association between a fungus and a plant. The term mycorrhiza refers to the role of the fungus in the plant’s rhizosphere, its root system. Mycorrhizae play important roles in plant nutrition, soil biology, and soil chemistry.
  • A parasitic fungi attack living organisms, penetrate their outer defenses, invade them, and obtain nourishment from living cytoplasm, thereby causing disease and sometimes death of the host.
  • Endophytic fungi inhabit plant tissues without destroying or producing substances that cause an infection to the host cell. 
Mushroom variety from Monterey Market. Photo by PattyCooks.

Mushrooms in Time

Mushrooms have probably been eaten by us and fellow human-like species, well before recorded time. The story I have always heard is early humans watched what other animals ate and if they did not die, the food was considered safe to eat. Through sharing information, the tribe learned to forage the land and eat well enough to last.

The earliest reports of mushroom consumption (2, 3, 4, 5):

  • Spain (8,700 years ago)
  • China (5,000 to 6,000 years ago)
  • Egypt (4,600 years ago)

Research notes: Mushrooms have been consumed since earliest history; ancient Greeks believed that mushrooms provided strength for warriors in battle, and the Romans perceived them as the “Food of the Gods.” For centuries, the Chinese culture has treasured mushrooms as a health food, an “elixir of life.” They have been part of the human culture for thousands of years and have considerable interest in the most important civilizations in history because of their sensory characteristics; they have been recognized for their attractive culinary attributes.

PBS looks at more recent history: For centuries relatively little was known about mushrooms, and for a long time the Eastern half of the world was considered mostly mycophilic, and the West mycophobic. This all changed when the French introduced mushrooms into their haute cuisine. It wasn’’t long before the rest of the world began to embrace the mushroom. By the late 19th century, Americans were cooking up mushrooms in their own kitchens.

Mushrooms as a Food Ingredient

Mushrooms come in all sizes, all colors, many different shapes, and do not all taste the same. You can buy them fresh or dried, canned or from open bins, and they can be from farmed or wild sources. So here I am discussing the cooking details of mushrooms.

Foraging Mushrooms

I would never forage for mushrooms without a known expert in the field. If buying from a vendor, only buy from one you know is knowlegeable.

Most mushroom are not edible. There are over 140k species of mushroom-producing fungi, but only ~614 are edible. Others are not edible due to their texture or taste, some will make you mildly sick, some very seriously sick, and some will outright kill you and ones you love.

Farming Mushrooms

Luckily, I have seen many mushroom farms that use dark greenhouses, partially underground, to produce pale, white-ish mushrooms. While other farmed mushrooms are labeled: Ultraviolet B-labeled, indicating they were exposed to sunlight during their growth period, and as a result have darker colors, have converted ergosterol into vitamin D, and are thus nutritionally enhanced.

These days, many mushroom farmers are trying hard to be better for the environment. They have to deal with issues, similar to other farmers, of: waste disposal (6 2020), run off (7 2011), air pollution (8 2001) and, in some cases, pesticides (9 2018). Many farmers are also spending time trying to figure out how to dispose of the used up mushroom substrate (10 2017); some using these trays of spent growth materials on their land as compost.

Shopping for Mushrooms

I prefer whole, loose mushrooms rather than pre-sliced or packaged ones. That way I know exactly what I am getting. My goal is to avoid any damaged, shriveled, slimy, or dried ones. Unless of course I am looking for dried shiitake which I use for cooking.

I smell them, looking for an earthy forest tone.

The more closed the cap, the fresher the mushroom, so I look for that specifically.

I want more cap and less stem in general. But for the King Trumpet mushroom the whole point is the stem.

Storing Mushrooms

Mushrooms perish quickly due to their natural dampness. So I tend to store them in a brown paper bag, so there is some air circulation and ethylene gas can be released. If I bought mushrooms in a container I generally reuse that since I believe the packaging is made for mushrooms, to maximize their shelf life. All I do is rewrap the mushrooms, after cleaning, in the same container and put it in a bag. Then I keep mushrooms in the fridge’s main part and NOT in the crisper.

Cleaning Mushrooms

I do not let water get near mushrooms, as they are moist enough. Instead I tend to use either a small pastry brush or a slightly damp paper towel to wipe off any soil or grit I can see. But if really dirty like foraged mushrooms often are, I have been known to use a strainer and do a quick spritz shower (not a bath) to get them clean. But then I also dry them and let them air out.

  • Shiitake, White Button, Cremini, Oyster etc.: These mushrooms are mainly grown, not foraged so are fairly clean when I get them. I just brush or wipe away any remaining dirt before slicing.
  • Morels: These mushrooms can get very dirty and have insects so I first shake them over the sink, then cut a thin slice off the bottom of the stem, followed by cutting the mushrooms lengthwise in half. They get a quick shower in cool water and a run through the salad spinner. But sometimes there are still insects inside some of the cells, and I may have to do do a quick soak in light salted water. Then rinse, pat dry and let it air out before cooking.
  • Portobello: I use large ones for stuffed mushroom appetizers, and thus part of cleaning is to remove the stem and the gills right under the cap. My preference is to use a spoon and scoop out the gills. But let me warn you this is messy, so I dump the gills immediately into my discard bowl.
  • King Trumpet: This mushroom has a very small cap and is all stem. Unlike other mushrooms you eat the stem and only trim off a bit of the bottom. It is easy to clean, just use a brush to gently sweep dirt off the stem.

Just to hammer the point, overly wet mushrooms are a spongy mess and feel that way in the mouth. Remember that mushrooms are porous, and start out nearly 90% water. To cook the mushroom you want it as fresh as possible, as clean as possible, and as dry as possible.

Part of cleaning, for me, is to trim off any damaged areas. For some mushrooms or recipes I may pop or cut off the stems, and let them dry before putting them up for a future veggie broth ingredient.

Sautéing Mushrooms

First I do not eat raw mushrooms, mainly because my body cannot absorb all of its nutrients when raw (11 2020), but can do so when cooked. This is not a concern about toxic stuff (12 2016), although since I do not wash mushrooms cooking will help kill germs, but my reason to not eat this food raw is related to pure nutrition.

Here is what I do to sauté mushrooms, starting with slicing cleaned mushrooms of nearly any type. The goal is to have browned mushrooms that have lost some of their moisture, yet remain moist and tender on the inside.

  • Heat skillet and olive oil
  • Add sliced mushroom and you should hear the sizzle
  • Over time the mushrooms will shrink as they lose water
  • Do not overcrowd the skillet or the mushrooms will steam instead on sauté
  • Then ~5 minute mark they should be browning

Info On 15 Common USA Mushrooms

There are 614 edible mushroom species found on two or more continents (1). These are the most often seen or referenced mushrooms at my local stores. There are others that I have not named, but I can always list those another time.

Black Trumpet Mushrooms

This is a mainly foraged mushroom with a rich and smoky flavor. Some say that when dried, these mushrooms can take on a hint of truffle flavor.

Button (white) Mushrooms

This is the most commonly used mushroom in the USA. It is chopped up for soups, spaghetti, casseroles, rice dishes, and as a pizza topping. This mushroom does not have a large flavor or aroma, so I generally do not use them; but they do tend to be cheaper than other mushrooms,

Originally, all Button mushrooms were brown-topped, but in 1926 a farmer noted some white ones pop up and he took them and cloned them to make this “new” version, which over time became the standard mushroom in the USA.

Cremini (brown topped) Mushrooms

This is the same as the Button mushroom above, just with a browned top. It does have a bit more flavor related to its color, but the aroma is still slight. This too is a generic, all-purpose mushroom to use in a lot of different recipes. Many consider this a good meat replacement.

Chanterelle mushrooms

Orangey to goldish yellow, these are generally described as sweet and peppery. Most often I have seen this with eggs in stir fry dishes. I also find that these mushrooms can last longer in the paper bag in the fridge than other varieties.

There are some similar looking mushrooms that can make you sick, so be sure of your vendor.

Enoki Mushrooms

I find these in Asian-inspired soups like ramen. These mushrooms come in large clusters, but are made up of tiny capped mushrooms with very long stems.

King Oyster Mushroom

They have a top like the smaller Oyster mushrooms, but have a long, cylindrical, and tender stalk. I have used this stalk for making a vegan scallops dish, have chopped it to replace meat in dishes, and for stir fry dishes. What a great mushroom, it has a chewy mouthfeel, meaty texture, and umami flavor.

Maitake Mushrooms

I run across this mushroom most often in Japanese cuisine, but only when small. When they get larger, they are used for medicinal purposes and I have been told kind of hard to eat.

Matsutake mushroom

The matsutake mushroom is highly prized and expensive, found in Chinese, Korean, and Japanese cuisine. I have not tasted this mushroom, but am told it has a spicy odor. It appears often in recipes I look up, so one of these days I intend to use it in a dish. I have heard that this is considered one of the more flavorful mushrooms.

Morrel Mushrooms

This is the funny topped mushroom that looks like brains, these mushrooms are not grown, but foraged. They have a nutty and earthy flavor, with a tender, yet meaty texture.

There are “true” Morrels and “false” Morrels that are poison. So buy from a quality vendor.

Oyster Mushrooms

These are white-light gray, mutli-headed clumps of mushrooms. I find these mild and generally has just a hint of sweetness. I have used them with eggs on toast, stroganoff, and when making a multi-mushroom stir fry.

I have also ordered this mushroom as a main dish; it was dipped in rice flour and deep fat fried, served with a dipping sauce. Some may say it tasted like chicken, but I think it was really that the cook used a typical fried chicken batter.

Porcini Mushrooms

When in Italy, these were the mushrooms that I remember being used in many dishes like soups, pasta, and risotto. This mushroom grows in deciduous + coniferous forests, forming symbiotic ectomycorrhizal associations with those trees. Porcini appears difficult to cultivate, so are foraged, and distributed mostly dried.

Portobello Mushrooms

This small to large gilled mushroom is a brown to blackish color often used for stuffed mushrooms, in vegan and vegetarian meals as a “steak,” or as a hamburger replacement. I find their taste rather mild, but it has a “meaty” texture, and an earthy aroma. It can get messy, especially when removing the blackish gills.

Shiitake Mushrooms

This mushroom is all over Asian-inspired cooking. I buy this mushroom both fresh and dried and use it in making veggie broths, mushroom omelets, stir-fry, soups, etc. They have a slightly smoky, earthy flavor, meaty texture, and visually are very pleasing when sliced. When sautéed, some argue it tastes buttery, but I do not taste that.

Truffle Mushrooms

Oregon and California grow wild truffles, but South of France is THE place.

PBS writes: If there is a crown jewel in the realm of fungi, it is the truffle. Referred to as the “diamond of the kitchen” by famous French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, truffles are one of the most expensive foods in the world. They grow near tree roots, most often oak, hazel, beech and chestnut, about 3-12 inches below ground. They are sniffed out by dogs and pigs that have been trained to recognize the truffle’s distinct odor. Once a truffle has been located, the trufficulteur(truffle farmer) will very carefully clean the surrounding area to check for ripeness. It is important to never touch the truffle with your bare hands, as this can cause the precious fungi to rot. If the truffle is not yet ripe for the picking, it is recovered and left to reach maturity. This long and labor-intensive process is the reason behind the hefty price tag.

In terms of what we buy, not the actual truffle since few of us actually have bought the mushroom, but truffle-infused products like salt or oil that are on our shelves; more likely than not the “truffle” in these items are fake (1). PBS also writes: A recent article in the New York Times claims that most truffle products in the U.S. contain zero actual truffles. So, what gives these “truffle products” their signature flavor?

Mushroom variety from Monterey Market. Photo by PattyCooks.

My Suggestions for Mushrooms

I buy dried mushrooms and generally have 3-4 varieties on hand. I also dry my own when I over buy fresh ones, very easy to do. The ones I dry I try to use within the month. Many Asian recipes automatically call for rehydrating mushrooms, and using both the mushroom and infused water; so they assume dried is what is used.

Also, I make an umami powder made up of ground-up mushrooms using the more meaty tasting ones. I add a pinch or two of this umami powder to soups, risotto, and some gravies.

In my younger days, I did not really like mushrooms, although I ate them. Now I have some nearly every two weeks. I really love them in omelettes, Asian-inspired soups and stir fries, and various tomato sauces.

Do you like mushrooms?

—Patty

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