I am often amazed at how many American cooks are unaware of leeks as part of the aromatic mix that lends texture and flavor to so many dishes. This plant is one I grew up knowing about, and is always in my fridge along with carrots, celery, and cabbage. Come with me on a journey all about leeks.
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What are Leeks
Leeks, according to Wikipedia, are a cultivar of Allium ampeloprasum, the broadleaf wild leek. The genus Allium also contains the onion, garlic, shallot, scallion, chive, and Chinese onion.
This is a root vegetable that grows in the form of a bundle of leaf sheaths, compact at the bottom, that broaden up and out at the top. The part that grows fully underground is colored white, the transition from soil to air starts to shift into light green, and then the sun exposed part turns into dark green. The dark green part of the plant, while perfectly edible, is fibrous and will need longer cooking that the softer white part.
The name ”leek,” comes from an old Germanic word Lauka. But originally, according to Culture, was most likely from eastern Mediterrnean areas and the Middle East, and was eaten in Ancient Egypt, but was introduced to Europe later in the Middle Ages. Now, it is also the emblem of Wales.
Leek Varieties
There are amazing varieties, fit to suit a number of cuisines. Amazingly they are often not listed in the stores, we only see the label ”leek” and not the variety.
But visually we can tell, as sometimes they are thin and tall, or thick and squatty, each is a different variety (1). The thinner the leek, generally, the milder the taste. Also the white part is milder than the dark green part.
- Varna: Early season variety, produces clumps of slender plants.
- Rival: Early-season variety, produces plants up to 36 inches tall, with broad 2” leaves.
- Columbus: Another early season variety, produces mid-sized leeks with blue-green leaves.
- Splendid: A rapidly growing but small height variety that produces medium-sized green stalks.
- Albinstar Baby Leeks: A small Dutch variety that is harvested when it is only 1⁄2” in diameter.
- Otina: A mild French variety
- King Richard: A summer variety that produces long, sweet, tender and slender stems. Best raw, and is thus often used for soup toppings and salads. I have seen these labeled King Leek.
- Lancelot: A frost resistant, short leek with a large, cylindrical stalk and greenish gray leaves.
- Jolant: Winter-hardy variety, with medium-sized stalks and blue-green leaves.
- Durabel: A thick winter leek with mild flavor and tender texture.
- American Flag: An overwintering variety, produces a mild, sweet, onion-like flavor that is often compared to an overgrown scallion.
- Bandit: A short, sweet leek that grows thick that is winter-hardy.
- Giant Musselburg: A hardy variety that produces large, white, tender stalks, medium to dark green tops and a mild flavor.
Cousin Ramps
Growing wild in North America, Ramsons (aka wild leeks or ramps) are a variety of wild leek, that is a very popular target for spring foragers, particularly in the Appalachians. They grow in low mountain altitudes, and range from South Carolina to up into Canada. The primary difference between ramps and leeks is that ramps are, to many, far more flavorful.
Do not feed leeks to dogs or cats as it is a member of the allium family and is considered poisonous to them.
Leek History + Lore
The leek is an ancient crop, native to eastern Mediterranean lands, and the Middle East. Leeks must have been cultivated in ancient Egyptian times, for there are texts stating that services could be paid in a barter-type fashion with items like oxen, beer, and leeks.
Historical texts show that leeks were also grown in Mesopotamia from the beginning of the second millennium BCE and were eaten in ancient Rome. It is believed that the Romans, in fact, brought the leek to the United Kingdom where they flourished because they could withstand the cold weather.
Meanwhile, people like the Greek Hippocrates (460BCE till 375BCE), often known as the father of medicine, recommended using leeks as a cure for many issues, such as nosebleeds.
Even infamous Eperor Nero (37ADE to 68ADE) is said to have loved leeks, so much in fact, he had the nickname Porrophagus which means “Leek-Eater” (2).
Phoenician traders are said to have introduced the leek to Wales, which is projected to have occurred when they were trading for tin in the British Isles. Later, the vegetable became a national symbol of Wales, and are now traditionally worn on 1 March, St. David’s Day. The reason is that during the Heathfield battle in 633 C.E on a leek field, the Welsh warriors wore leeks as a form of identification. They eventually won the battle, and as a result the leek spread throughout that country as a symbol of good luck.
During the middle ages, according to Cultures de chez nous, the cultivation of leeks was introduced to Europe where they remain a prized vegetable to this day.
Why Cook with Leeks
For me it is first a tradition, as leeks are part of European cooking. But also it has other great cooking properties. Second is its size, so you can cook a large quantity for its cost. Third is that each of the three sections can be used in the same dish or in different dishes. Fourth, it adds color to pale dishes, while fifth, it also adds a subtle flavor resembling the onion and garlic nature of the plant. Sixth, for me, it lasts longer in the fridge than scallions.
Flavorful Combinations
- Leeks cooked in butter or butter and olive oil
- Combine leeks with fennel, great on salmon.
- Leeks and potatoes for soups or stews.
- Leeks and sheep or goats’ cheeses.
- Leeks and ramen soup (instead of scallions).
- Cooked in butter and pureed, poured under or over fish.
- Crispy fried leeks to top risotto, soups, stews, or stirfry.
Nutrition + Health
Leeks are low in sodium and calories. They are also a significant source of vitamins B6 and C, folic acid and iron. According to HealthLine: Leeks and wild ramps boast a variety of nutrients and beneficial compounds that may improve your digestion, promote weight loss, reduce inflammation, fight heart disease, and combat cancer. In addition, they may lower blood sugar levels, protect your brain, and fight infections.
When compared to onions, SouperSage writes: Leek has more niacin and folate. Leek has signficantly more Vitamin A than onion. Leek is a great source of calcium and iron. But onions and leeks have comparable carbohydrates, sugar, and dietary fiber.
WebMD writes, leeks contain lutein and zeaxanthin, two substances that protect the eyes. These substances, known as carotenoids, reduce the risk of cataracts and age-related macular degeneration. Additionally, they add, leeks are rich in flavonoids, especially one called kaempferol. Flavonoids are antioxidants and may have anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, and anticancer properties, as well as other health benefits. Definite proof of these health benefits of leeks will depend upon future studies with humans.
How to Shop for Leeks
There are some rules-of-thumb when it comes to leeks and general cooking needs.
- I want to see a firm rod of dark green, to light green, to white and roots of the plant.
- For most cooks, they consider having as much white and light green as possible, not something I pay attention to since all can be cooked.
- Look for wilted or dried leaves, no roots, or dried brownish roots; all reasons to not pick that one.
- Avoid withered, blemished, or mushy in any way.
- The leek needs to be crisp + firm with vibrant colors to be fresh.
- The smaller the diameter, the earlier it was harvested.
- For me, best is something ~1.5” to 2” diameter max with straight, tight leaves, and all three colors are present.
- Best in season: generally ~September through May.
Storing Leeks
I store my leeks in the fridge, unwashed, and loosely wrapped in a compost baggie and in the veggie drawer. This will help make them last between 2-3 weeks in there, but will start to wither if kept longer. I find that the insides last longer than the outsides so sometimes will have to peel a few outer leaves off to use up the food.
I tend to only use frozen leeks as part of making a veggie stock, but some people do use frozen leefs much more than I do. If I want to keep them longer, I tend to do the following, but only with the darker green parts that are hardier.
- Freezing Dark Green Parts
- Clean the dark green parts of the leeks well, slice, and then blanch them for ~30sec.
- Let them cool off to room temperature on a rack, and then dry them off and bag them up for freezing.
I have had them frozen up to a year and it works well only if used as part of another dish. Frozen leeks tend to get mushy, and can get bitter. So frozen leeks do not work as well if the dish is basically about the leek, freezing breaks down its sensitive tissue. I have found that frozen leeks work well only in dishes where they are in the subtle background of the dish. As part of a stew, soup, stock, or pie for instance.
Cleaning Leeks
Leeks are built to funnel dirt into their nooks and crannies. In fact, they are funnel shaped, so there is a tendency for people to think the whole deal of cooking with leeks is that you will inevitably have grit in your food. But this need not happen if washed properly. Luckily, cleaning leeks is rather simple, the key is to be thorough.
Cut off the roots (use that to regrow the veggie if you want, or compost). Then slice the whole leek in half lengthwise, start at the white bottom, and up through the darker green tops.
Then, under running water, I gently pull back the leaves to expose the inside of them to the water and I then use my thumb to rub the dirt off.
I slice the whole leek into coin shapes generally, pop out the layers over a colander, and then rinse them under running water again to help remove any dirt I missed with the first cleaning. (If particularly dirty, I may put the chopped leek parts into a bowl so I can swish the water for a more rigorous cleaning.)
Then I drain and dry the leaks and they are ready to use.
Using Leeks
Any dish I am cooking, when it calls for shallots, a bit of onion. or garlic, can be considered a ”leek possible” dish. Here are some of the ways I use leeks, and always have one in my fridge as a staple, along with carrots, celery, and cabbage.
Raw Leeks
The only part I use raw would be the white part, and it must be very thinly cut and come from a thin leek. This I will add to salads, to salad dressing, as soup toppings, and as toppings on lemon baked salmon.
Sautéed Leeks
Since the leek’s aroma and flavor is a soft mixture of onion and garlic, it tastes very good when just cooked in a bit of butter and oil.
- Scottish Buttered Leeks
- Frittata or omelette or quiche with leeks
- Add to herby bread stuffing
Use the Dark Leaves
Other than just using leeks as an ingredient in many dishes, there are other uses as well.
- Use the dark green leaves as a non-stick layer under food in a bamboo steamer, to keep the food from sticking to the basket.
- The dark leaves can also be used as part of the layer under roasting food, like steak, chicken, turkey, or fish.
- Definitely use the dark green leaves when making a vegetable broth, to help add more flavor slice the leaves into long strips before cooking.
- They can also be used as a garnish on a serving plate, especially with visually pale foods.
As you move from the top of the plant down to the roots, it gets lighter in color and texture. The darker green the leaf, the longer it needs to cook to become tender.
Use Leeks in Green Dishes
I use leeks in leafy green dishes, such as these two:
Use Leeks in Soups
I find leeks to be very complimentary with chicken and potatoes. In fact, when I make veggie broth these days, I always add leek greens for subtle, added flavor.
Dried Leeks
I also have dried leeks, which I use in Instant Ramen Soup as a garnish and to add some veggies to this processed food. Fresh would be better tasting, but this works fine in this type of soup.
In summary, as you can tell, I love leeks. Give them a try.
—Patty
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