I contacted a friend, Jackie, whose family is from the Middle East and has spent time in Lebanon. She, along with various cooks, and websites taught me about the food in this area of the world. She writes, It’s been a long time since I’ve been in Lebanon, but one of the things I remember vividly is always running late, always grabbing breakfast from the nearest – or most recommended if there was time – street corner cart.
So, what does this area of the world eat for breakfast?
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Levantine Cuisine
The Levant is an archaic term that approximates a historical and geographical land area that currently would list these countries: Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, Cyprus and most of Turkey. There is a similarity of the cuisines, yet of course plenty of regional differences, that I will try to capture where I can.
Common staple ingredients among these countries include: Chickpeas, tahini, feta, halloumi, aubergine, peppers, zucchini, olives, pomegranates, mint, lemon and yoghurt. Perfect for people who prefer non-meat foods who can add these items to warm pita bread and have a flavorful meal.
The region is also one that uses a variety of herbs and fresh ingredients to sizzle the taste buds, and bring color and aroma to the table. The use of fresh mint, hint of citrus with lemons, the green of parsley, the zing of cilantro, and the interplay with yogurt or tahini. Makes me salivate just listing and thinking of the food from this area of the world.
They also eat meat, tending toward lean meats. They eat lamb, chicken, and fish.
My focus however, will be on Lebanese breakfast foods, and through them, will share some of the variations found in the other countries surrounding Lebanon.
Mediterranean Food
I went to an encyclopedia to get an overview of Lebanon. It states that the land is rugged, as in a mountainous terrain that has served throughout history as an asylum for diverse religious and ethnic groups and for political dissidents. Then it goes on to explain that Lebanon is one of the most densely populated countries in the Mediterranean area and has a high rate of literacy.
Lebanon is located on the Mediterranean Sea, so of course its cuisine has influenced, and has been influenced by its neighbors. Maureen Abood writes that it is not only the food but the approach to food that makes this region’s food so healthy, we eat with relish and pleasure, shared with the people we love. Food and family are synonymous for the Lebanese!
Lebanese cuisine contains lots of food I already eat, that is the food I had always considered Mediterranean: include baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, falafel, shawarma, hummus, etc. Wikipedia writes: many dishes in Lebanese cuisine can be traced back thousands of years to eras of Phoenician, Persian, Egyptian, Neo-Babylonian, Roman, Greek, Byzantine, Arab and Ottoman rule. But, like many countries all over the world, the last 500 years has seen Lebanese cuisine be influenced by the powerful of the day (such as Ottoman Turks, and French).
Important Lebanese Ingredients
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
This fat is used on all sorts of things, butter is also used but reserved for special occasions or foods. Olive oil is an everyday ingredient.
Coffee
Sally Bernstein writes coffee is a big deal in Lebanon. It is served throughout the day, at home and in the public cafes. Lebanese coffee is strong, thick and often flavored with cardamom. It is also usually heavily sweetened. When guests arrive at one’s home, they are invariably persuaded to stay for a coffee, no matter how short their visit.
i remember a visit to Jackies mom’s house. within minutes she was making and pouring us a cup of coffee. It was a small cup that smelled of cardamom and tasted so rich. I finished mine and was the only one who asked for a second cup. It was so good, in the moment I thought this was the most perfect cup of coffee I had ever tasted.
Fruit
Fruit is at nearly every meal I am told. They grow apricots, lumquats, plums, watermelon, cantaloupe, honey dew, cherries, bananas, grapes, strawberries, peaches, lychee, mangos, persimmons, pineapples, pomegranates, figs, mulberry, and so on. There seems to be nothing that cannot be grown here.
Garlic
Garlic will show up in many dishes in the background or very much in the foreground of a dish.
Za’atar
This spice combination is referenced throughout this post, so here is what I use. Remember, this spice combination varies by region, some, for instance, even add lemon zest to the mixture.
- PattyCooks Za’atar Mix
- 2T toasted cumin seeds, then grind in mortar-n-pestle
- 2T toasted sesame seeds until they are aromatic, and lightly tan in color
- 2T dried oregano, crumbled between your fingers
- 2T dried thyme, crumbled between your fingers
- 2T dried marjoram, crumbled between your fingers
- 2T sumac
- 2t kosher salt
- 1t freshly ground pepper
There is a Za’atar herb that is used, but not available here. It grows wild and tastes like a combination of, according to NYT: oregano, marjoram, summer savory and thyme. Thus, I add those herbs to my mixture.
Lebanese Breakfasts
Most Decadent: Kanafeh
Wikipedia describes Kanafeh as a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made with spun pastry called kataifi, soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup called attar, and typically layered with cheese, or with other ingredients such as clotted cream, pistachio or nuts, depending on the region.
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Most Comforting: Kaak
Ka’ak can easily refer to a bread that is commonly consumed throughout the Near East. It is is made in a large ring-shape or a purse-shape, covered with sesame seeds, and often served with za’atar. Sometimes in Lebanon, and in some other areas, the bread is glazed with milk and sugar, and then dried, or it might be served sliced with a filling of a mild, creamy cheese. Each region may have its own version in terms of ingredients, toppings, and size.
The dough is often made from fermented chickpeas, but can be made either without yeast or with different flours, or black instead of white sesame seeds.
- Jackie: Filling comfort food. My favourite has always been with zaater. The bread always had a smokey taste to it.
- Wikipedia: Fermented chickpeas are used as a leavening agent. Widely sold by street vendors, it is usually eaten as a snack or for breakfast with za’atar.
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GoTo Fast Food: Manakish
This is rolled out yeast dough, I would call a flatbread, that is pressed by fingers after it has risen, creating little dips to hold toppings.
If za’atar is the topping it is sprinkled on, then oil is added and the mixture is spread onto the dough before baking. But toppings could include akawi cheese, minced lamb, etc. In some regions, sides for breakfast may include a cup of tea and yogurt.
- Jackie:There was one place in particular on the corner of my friend’s neighbourhood. The bread was always soft and hot and the cheese abundant and gooey and smokey and ever so slightly sweet. All over the Middle East, Manakish was always my go-to for when I didn’t want to think about anything.
- Wikipedia: Traditionally, women would bake dough in a communal oven in the morning, to provide their family with their daily bread needs, and would prepare smaller portions of dough with different toppings for breakfast at this time.
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Healthiest: Fatteh
This is said to be a very ancient dish that came from Egypt and spread through the southern parts of the Levant area. Wikipedia explains that Egypt’s version is: a garlic and vinegar flavored meat soup and crispy flatbread served in a bowl with rice and a sauce consisting of garlic tomato sauce. Plus they write that in Palestine the version is: plain rice cooked in a meat broth, and then flavored with mild spices (especially cinnamon). Rice is laid over a thin bread which is smothered in clarified butter and topped with various meats.
For Lebenon, Eater writes that this dish starts with a base layer of super-toasty Lebanese bread crisped up like a pita chip … then comes a healthy scoop of stewed chickpeas, followed by thick, salted, garlicky yogurt to fill in the cracks … fry up some almond slivers and pine nuts in lamb fat (this was so close to being healthy), then top the whole thing with more crispy chips and a drizzle of olive oil, and you can be done with life now.
- Jackie: The pine nuts make this dish! It always makes me want to take a nap! Stodgy food for cold winter mornings.
- Wikipedia: Egyptian and Levantine dish consisting of pieces of fresh, toasted, grilled, or stale flatbread covered with other ingredients that vary according to region.
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Any Time of the Day Breakfast: Ful Medames
Basically, this dish is a stew that starts with cooking fava beans which can take some time when done from a dried state. Wikipedia describes this dish as a stew of cooked fava beans served with olive oil, cumin, and optionally with chopped parsley, garlic, onion, lemon juice, chili pepper, and other vegetable, herb, and spice ingredients. Ful Medames is another dish that has a direct line back to ancient Egypt, but from there is spread far and wide into the Middle East, Africa, Malta and Malaysia.
Eater writes, in Lebanon the fava bean mixture gets spiked with balila, stewed whole chickpeas with garlic, cumin, and pine nuts. In Jordan, I am told, it is made similar to a hummus-like dip, with tahini, garlic, tomato, lemon juice, ground cumin, olive oil, green peppers and salt.
- Jackie: Full on lemony protein! I eat this for dinner a lot!
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Best ToGo Breakast: Mouajanet
The best I can do with this is to call it, as Jackie does, a variety of savory pastries. I watched several YouTube recordings in various languages, but could not find a good English speaking recipe for any of them.
- Jackie: Savory pastries with spinach, cheese, or meat are perfect for travelling or when you want a little bit of everything… like mezze in edible packages!
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Tangiest: Labneh
Labneh is a soft, cheesy-like sauce made from strained cows-milk yogurt, and is thicker than Greek Yogurt. This dip is made for eating with savory foods.
- Jackie: Tangy Greek-stye yogurt (but SO much better) eaten with olives, pita bread, pickled turnips, carrot sticks… anything you like to dip!
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One of my dreams is to have a guided, culinary tour of places like Lebanon where I can see this food being made and then taste to my heart’s content. Frankly, there is just so much to learn about food it seems an almost impossible task. But well worth trying.
—Patty
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